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Lion's Head Rock Climbing
Routes in Lion's Head
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Hakuna Matada S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Lion Cling S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Lion of Judah S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Simba's Pride S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Elevation: | 6,328 ft |
| GPS: |
42.0917, -113.6982 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 6,810 total · 43/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Halladay on Jun 12, 2011 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
The Lion's Head is a nice, secluded wall in the inner city that just has a nice vibe to it. Not only that, it has some high quality 5.10 climbing to offer visitors. The routes that we climbed are on the west side so the climbing is shady in the morning with afternoons sun.
The main attraction are the two pitch routes Hakuna Matada and Lion of Judah. Despite the fact that they are two pitches, they aren't that long. It just makes sense to break up the routes into two pitches on account of the nice belay scoop/ledge about 60 feet up.
The main attraction are the two pitch routes Hakuna Matada and Lion of Judah. Despite the fact that they are two pitches, they aren't that long. It just makes sense to break up the routes into two pitches on account of the nice belay scoop/ledge about 60 feet up.
Getting There
Park at the new Circle Creek Overlook parking and take the trail west past a couple of cattle gates. Follow signs for the Geowatt formation. Once at Geowatt, head around Geowatt to the west to the next major formation just west of Geowatt. This is Lion's Head. The climbing routes are on the formation's west side.
An alternative approach is to hike the inner city trail to just even with the Building Blocks. Turn hard right and follow a series of small drainages north to the Lion's Head.
Approach time is about 15 minutes. The Lion's Head formation is about a mile from the new Circle Creek Overlook parking.
An alternative approach is to hike the inner city trail to just even with the Building Blocks. Turn hard right and follow a series of small drainages north to the Lion's Head.
Approach time is about 15 minutes. The Lion's Head formation is about a mile from the new Circle Creek Overlook parking.
Classic Climbing Routes at Lion's Head
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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