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Morning Glory Wall
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Lion's Chair 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 350'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Phil Dean 1968
Page Views: 1,034
Submitted By: peachy spohn on Dec 4, 2008
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Lion's Chair, 1997.
Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

I only climbed the 11a first pitch, but pitches 3, 4, and 5 I have climbed when doing 'Zebra Zion.' The first pitch is fairly long and gives a good leg pump, but there are plenty of good shakes. The moves that are in the 10c section and which the book says makes a great climb on its own are the hardest. High-stepping is very beneficial. That said, if you make it through to the first set of anchors you should keep going because it's not any more difficult. However the gear sucks through the 11- section and a long fall is pretty much guaranteed if you let go...so don't. Great rock and cool moves.
Pitches 3, 4, and 5 can be checked out on the 'Zebra Zion' link.


Location 

The Morning Glory Wall. The dihedral just left of the tree.


Protection 

There are five bolts on the route, if you clip one of the anchors on top of the 10c section and the bolt one foot above the anchor which has emerged out of the wall about a 1/2 inch. Otherwise, bring a set of nuts, a few small cams (metolious 00-4), and a few medium cams (metolious 6,7,8). Just before the 11- section that the book shows you can place a bomber #4, an okay #00, or a fairly bad small stopper (or all if you want). The bolt that looms above has great holds to clip from, but just make sure you get to them.



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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Dec 5, 2008

I think of this as the Vern Steifel Memorial Route. Every time Vern was in the main area he would climb this route, and try to get everyone else in the area to do it too. He really loved this route.

By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Nov 30, 2009

The crux of the first pitch is clipping the bolt. If you're under 5'10 or have ape index issues it's pretty hard. Once the bolt is clipped, you're golden. If you get sketched about the layback after the second bolt...you have a much easier option...you just have to look "around."

By Amy Ohran
From: Bend, Or
Jul 9, 2011

not R, very G. Actually, very O.G. go for it.

By another Chad
Feb 23, 2013

The first part of this route (Lion's Chair Start) is graded 5.10c in Watts' book which seems rather cruel.



Chad