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Lion's Head
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Lion Tamer T 

Lion Tamer 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 800', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: FA: Roskelley? FFA: John Kitel and Mark Pierce '91
Page Views: 440
Submitted By: Scott Coldiron on Oct 8, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Lion Tamer 5.10c with belay stations marked by x's

Description 

1. 55M of 8 and 9 Chimney climbing. The 9 chimney protects well and is a tad easier than the Stanley Burgner chimney but it has a way more dramatic finish with a 10 hand crack exit and a couple more 10 boulder moves to the belay.
  • *belay is obvious- 3 pitons with slings and a couple rap rings (top piton is loose, but the other two are bomber)

2. Goes straight up the obvious groove and has a nice 9 layback at the end that deposits you on an ample ledge.
  • *Look for slings on trees, your choice of a couple good belay spots.

3. takes you up some more wide but awesome 9 maneuvers and puts you directly into some 10 thin hands and laybacks. After this little crux another 50 or so feet of 8 will set you on a giant mossy ledge.

4. Fun 9 laybacking up a wide crack to an awkward mantle. Some easy face climbing and a finish behind a wide flake.
  • * We combined pitch 3 and 4

5. Laird describes this as easy climbing on ramps. Kittel calls it 10 fingers and a 10 hand traverse. I agree with Kittel. Climb the easy chimney. Go straight up a thin open book with 10 maneuvering. Exit left via a hand traverse, more 10. Zig back right to a large mossy belay.
  • * I found the thin crack in the open book to be the crux of the whole route. from that point, It looks very hard overhead, but move a little higher and you see a perfect, bomber hand rail traversing left under the roof.

6. Now an easy exit right will get you close to the top. Low fifth.
  • * From the large ledge belay, there is an easy corner topped by a dirty, loose-looking 10-ish off-width that exits the big roof directly overhead. I recommend going up the corner 15 feet or so, then look for the easy hidden ramp around the corner to the right. Walk 30 feet right along the ramp, look around another corner, and you’ll see easy slabs with one pitch of low fifth scrambling to the summit.

Location 

Takes the obvious line right-of-center on the North Face. Look for the left-facing chimney (1st Pitch).

Descent is due south via two slabby raps with one 60.
  • * First rap station is in a bunch of trees directly over the South Face Slab route.
To find 2nd rap station, drop directly down the South Face. with 10 m of rope left, you’ll rap over a bulge, land on a small ledge and scramble back up 8 feet to slings and a big cable around a good-sized tree.
From the base, look for the easy ramp that will take you up to the West shoulder. From here, there is another easy ramp down the North Face that will take you almost to the base of the route.

Protection 

- single set of C3's from 0 to 3
- double set of C4's from .4 to 3
Some call for a #4. I did not feel a #4 was necessary, and I did sew up the crux sections.
- 1 set of nuts
- 8-10 alpine draws
- 2 double length slings
- one 60m rope
  • *snow field at the base is not an issue later in the season, but an ax may be handy in early season.



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