This somewhat runout friction route climbs past two widely spaced bolts with a tricky move at the bottom and another just past the last bolt. Supplemental protection may be found with small wires to help lessen the runouts.
Between More My Speed and Sawdust and Peanut Shells.
2 bolts (3/8"), shared anchors with Sawdust and Peanut Shells
BETA PHOTO: Lion Tamer.
Photo by Blitzo.
From: San Diego, CA
Jan 22, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Bring a set of smaller nuts too; you can protect two cracks along the way. The patina on this is great, and the runout up top is exciting. A fun friction climb.
Mar 21, 2011
This would be a classic intro slab route if even remotely well protected.