Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Wildfire Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bad Finger T 
Bad Finger Extended (BFE)  T 
Cornercopia T 
Crime Wave T 
Cry of the Poor T 
Gruff T 
Iron Cross T 
Just Say Yes S 
Lion of Judah S 
Mad Man T,TR 
Neutral Zone T 
On The Road T 
Out Of Darkness T 
Pure Palm S 
Rim Job T 
Soft Touch T 
Split Decision T,S 
Titus T 
Try To Be Hip S 
White Trash S 
Wildfire T 

Lion of Judah 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: TR: Chuck Buzzard 11d version: John Rich 1989, 12b: unknown
Page Views: 302
Submitted By: Jon Rhoderick on Oct 1, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Our start of the route follows the holds near the ...

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This colorful route had fallen dusty by the time we had found it. Our start was essentially right between the two noted in Watts's Guidebook, about 3 ft left of first bolt. Head up to a lieback feature, which can be chimneyed. Good edges pull onto the first face until bolt 3 or 4, where a strenuous mantel allows you to traverse right into the corner. If you can get through the first few moves in the corner it gets progressively easier finishing on fantastic patina-like jugs. Like any true 11d at Smith expect solid 5.12 climbing(about as hard as White Trash or T2BH), but the intimidating climbing under the first bolts deters many.

Location 

Bolt line between White Trash and Just Say No/Try to Be Hip

Protection 

8 bolts to one good bolt, bad bolt, and a knife blade. Stick clip required.


Photos of Lion of Judah Slideshow Add Photo
The stemming corner in the center leads to a finis...
BETA PHOTO: The stemming corner in the center leads to a finis...

Comments on Lion of Judah Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matt Farrell
From: Bend, Oregon
Oct 22, 2014

Update October 2014: John Rich just went back up this and replaced the terrifying ancient webbing on top with big shiny chains and checked all the bolts as well as brushing everything down. The route is in great shape right now. Go get on it!