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Linville River Crag

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Bad Monkey T,S 
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Chimney Man T 
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Creepy Corner T 
Crimson Corner T 
Default Plan T 
Garden Variety T 
Hell In A Handbasket T 
Hemlock Arete T,S 
In there like swimwear... T 
It's about Time... T 
Jackpot T 
Light Thoughts... T 
Slim Pickins' S 
Switcharoo T 
Tightsqueeze T 
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Linville River Crag  

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Administrators: saxfiend, Edward Medina, Ryan Williams, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: nbrown on Jan 18, 2008
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If you are looking for a nice place in the back country to camp and climb for a couple days, then this is the place for you. However, it is also pretty reasonable to hike in and just climb for the day. There is fantastic camping down along the Linville river, with a short approach up to the crag, and great swimming holes along the river in this location. The wall faces mostly north, but is fairly well sheltered from the winds. The rock is the same high quality stuff found at Hawksbill. The routes are mostly natural, following fantastic features, including a wild freestanding pinnacle. The cliff is very small, but the quantity and quality makes it a worthy endeavour. Also, of special not: the popular bouldering area is located below the crag, extending northward towards the bridge.

Note: There have recently been a few anchor modifications to some of the routes at this crag, so some of the information listed elsewhere may not be totally accurate.

Getting There 

From the west rim (Kistler Memorial Hwy), approach via Connely Cove trail. Upon reaching the river walk north for about 5-10 minutes. The approach trail is off to the left on a subtle ridge just before walking below the lower cliff band (obvious). Follow it uphill for about 200 yards until you enter through the wild chimney seperating the Spire/Pinnacle and the main wall. It should take about 45 minutes to get there. Note: One can also approach the river trail via Spence Ridge Trail. It is longer, but with much less elevation change. Generally, people approaching from the east rim would be better off seeing this route.

Climbing Season

Weather station 8.8 miles from here

18 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Linville River Crag:
Chimney Man   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 80'   
Hemlock Arete   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, Sport, 75'   
Garden Variety   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 50'   
Jackpot   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 80'   
Hell In A Handbasket   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Browse More Classics in Linville River Crag

Featured Route For Linville River Crag
Much steeper and better than it looks.  It climbs ...

Hell In A Handbasket 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a  NC : Linville Gorge : Linville River Crag
This route was recently extended through the large roof block at the top. There has been an additional bolt placed that protects the climbing to the roof.Climb past 4 bolts and gear to a transition in the chimney just below the large roof crack block. Climb the rail through the large roof to a 2 bolt anchor. The roof is protected by a #3 camelot. It is possible to use a bigger cam but it's not necessary. Note: bring 2 shoulder length slings to extend the 2 bolt anchor for top-roping....[more]   Browse More Classics in NC

Photos of Linville River Crag Slideshow Add Photo
The free standing pinnacle where the trail meets t...
The free standing pinnacle where the trail meets t...
Chimney Man.  This route has a new bolt protecting...
Chimney Man. This route has a new bolt protecting...
Tony following the stout "Clever Corner"...
Tony following the stout "Clever Corner"...
Frost on his "near" flash of the classic...
Frost on his "near" flash of the classic...
Chimney Man.  There are 2 finishes for this route....
Chimney Man. There are 2 finishes for this route....
Picture taken from another site.  This is the pinn...
BETA PHOTO: Picture taken from another site. This is the pinn...
Hemlock Arete
Hemlock Arete
Some of the routes in view from Wiseman's.
BETA PHOTO: Some of the routes in view from Wiseman's.

Comments on Linville River Crag Add Comment
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By David Barbour
From: Denver
Jun 10, 2013
Is this close to other climbing areas in the Gorge? Planning on camping there for 4 days on 4th of July weekend.
By Edward Medina
From: Ridgway, CO
Jun 11, 2013
as the crow flies, yes. But you would have to drive a good bit to get from the West side of the gorge over to the crags on the East side. Probably just under an hour driving to get from Conley Cove Trailhead to Table Rock parking lot.