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Linville Gorge

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Amphitheater 
Camel, The 
Gold Coast Cliffs 
Hawksbill Mtn 
Henson Creek Canyon 
Linville River Crag 
North Carolina Wall 
Shortoff Mountain 
Sitting Bear 
Table Rock 
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Rest Day:
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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Linville Gorge 


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Location: 35.8868, -81.8851 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: saxfiend, Edward Medina, Ryan Williams, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: saxfiend on Oct 14, 2006
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Description 

Linville Gorge is a premier climbing destination in the SE. Routes range from easy multipitch to hardman sandbags. Table Rock and the Amphitheatre are very popular with those seeking more moderate outings while areas like Hawksbill and Shortoff attract a more hardcore crowd.

The rock is quartzite, and typically low angle. There aren't many parallel sided cracks here, and routes can wander so route finding can be an issue. Of course, this make Linville an ideal place for beginning multi-pitch leaders to cut their teeth. The plethora of easier routes combined with some foreseeable challenges create an atmosphere of learning.

Having said that, it is also important to note that despite the easy grade of many of the routes at Table and Linville, they are still rock routes and are affected by the same factors as any other rock climbing route. It is advisable to wear a helmet at all times. Don't count on belay stations to be fixed. Know your route.

Linville is a fantastically beautiful place, with great exposure and lots of fun routes.


Getting There 

From Asheville, take I-40 east toward Marion, exiting at US 70 just west of Marion. Continue on 70 to exit on US 221 and head north to the small town of Linville Falls. At Linville Falls, turn right (east) on NC 183 and drive about four miles to NC 181; turn right again (south). After about 2.5 miles, make another right off 181 onto Gingercake Road (SR 1264) for a short distance, then take the left fork onto Table Rock Road (SR 1261); this changes to forest road 210 and becomes a gravel road. Continue for several miles to the Table Rock parking lot. From here, there is camping and trails leading to Table Rock and to various sections of Linville Gorge.


Climbing Season


200 Total Routes


['4 Stars',30],['3 Stars',111],['2 Stars',48],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',14],['5.7',13],['5.8',10],['5.9',15],['5.10',52],['5.11',64],['5.12',28],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Linville Gorge:
The Prow   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   Amphitheater
Jim Dandy   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Table Rock
Peek-a-Boo   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   Table Rock
North Ridge   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   Table Rock
The Mummy   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 350'   Amphitheater
My Route   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   Table Rock
Little Corner   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   Shortoff Mountain
The Daddy   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 500'   Amphitheater
Maginot Line   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 4 pitches, 300'   Shortoff Mountain
White Lightning   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Table Rock
Paradise Alley   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 450'   Shortoff Mountain
Construction Job   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   Shortoff Mountain
Dopey Duck   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 350'   Shortoff Mountain
Straight and Narrow   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 340'   Shortoff Mountain
Lost in Space   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 170'   Hawksbill Mtn : Main Wall
The Fat Lady   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   Hawksbill Mtn : Lower Hawksbill
Golden Rule   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 130'   Shortoff Mountain
The Open Book   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 175'   Amphitheater
Encore   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 100'   Hawksbill Mtn : Lower Hawksbill
Supercrack    5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Shortoff Mountain
Browse More Classics in Linville Gorge

Featured Route For Linville Gorge
P1 of White Lightning

White Lightning 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  NC : Linville Gorge : Table Rock
Perhaps the best route on Table Rock. 2 fantastic corners connected with some fun face.This climb connects the first pitch of True Grit with the second pitch of White Light. The rest of the original lines are rarely done and are highly vegetated. P1: Stem and jam your way up the fantastic corner. At the top, exit left, then climb up and right along crack systems on a nice slab. Belay at a semi-hanging stance in small corner below a large, arching crack. P2: Step right from the belay and clim...[more]   Browse More Classics in NC

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Photos of Linville Gorge Slideshow Add Photo
From L to R:  Hawksbill, Table Rock, the NC wall, and Shortoff
BETA PHOTO: From L to R: Hawksbill, Table Rock, the NC wall, ...
It doesn't take nature long in the Gorge.
It doesn't take nature long in the Gorge.
Trillium's are common along the river in spring.
Trillium's are common along the river in spring.
View of Linville Gorge from the Chimneys.
View of Linville Gorge from the Chimneys.
Sunset from Hawksbill.
Sunset from Hawksbill.
Sunset from Table Rock
Sunset from Table Rock
Dusk
Dusk
Shorthoff Mtn, shortly after the South side river crossing
Shorthoff Mtn, shortly after the South side river ...
Offset placement in a chilly Linville Gorge.
Offset placement in a chilly Linville Gorge.
This pano was taken from Wise Mans View on the west side of the gorge. The formations from left to right are Halks Bill, Table Rock, Carolina Wall, and way down there is Shortoff Mtn.
This pano was taken from Wise Mans View on the wes...
Timber Rattler on the approach trail to the NC Wall.
Timber Rattler on the approach trail to the NC Wal...
Best Seat In The House (Mashburns Pinnacle)
Best Seat In The House (Mashburns Pinnacle)
Linville Falls.  This is where the Gorge starts.
Linville Falls. This is where the Gorge starts.
Baine on the last and only worthwhile pitch of The Daddy 5.6 at the Ampitheater in Linville Gorge NC
Baine on the last and only worthwhile pitch of The...
A view north into Linville Gorge from the route The Daddy.
A view north into Linville Gorge from the route Th...
Matthew settling in for a cold night
Matthew settling in for a cold night
Typical gear placement in Linville. Deep horizontals and lichen galore.
Typical gear placement in Linville. Deep horizonta...
One of the top rope climbs on the chimneys.
One of the top rope climbs on the chimneys.
The Linville Gorge in March
The Linville Gorge in March
Comments on Linville Gorge Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 30, 2014
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Sep 6, 2007

I received this update via email from Bob Underwood

----------
Rockjock Trail

This largely abandoned and overgrown trail was listed in Sept 2006 for the US Forest Service Adopt-a-Trail program . The trail runs about four miles ( by crow ) across the top of a 400ft wall sometimes called the 'Goldcoast'. Altho the NC Wall directly across the Gorge is higher and cleaner, the Rockjock area contains some clean rock on the south side of the 'canyons'. it is currently being 'mined' by various groups of independent climbers. It is a spectacular trail which passes by about 6 waterfalls, overhangs and caves and several unusual promnitories and outcrops.
The agreement with the USGS allows us to work from Conly Cove south to an unpublished trail i call "Mossy Canyon Ridge Trail" (MCRT) about half mile north of Pinchin. If/ when this work is Done, i will requsest Your help in petitioning the USFS to extend the agreement to continue the Rockjock trail south to Dobson Knob Road--which was its original length.

The reason the USFS did not allow us to continue south of MCRT is because that portion of Rockjock never appeared on their maps and they are required to go thru a lengthly process to approve "new" trail. They seem reluctant to do this. Common sense woud suggest that MCRT is a steep trail and highly vulnerable to erosion if it became better known and that the Dobson entrance is Clearly the best way to protect the forest. We hope MCRT will be abandoned and allowed to revert to nature when this project is complete.

This area was burned by the Nov 2000 fire and burned again on its south end in the spring of 2007. It is now a charcoal forest and easy to get thru. A spare fire crew did a wonderful job of restoring trail from both ends and the middle is still unfinished. Your help is needed.

Work began on Rockjock in Oct 2006 and about 60% of the trail is now open.

An interactive map of the entire Linville Gorge is available at www.linvillegorge.net with an index of 39 trails not published on USFS maps ,

Google Earth has hi-res photos of the Gorge which would allow you to see a person standing anywhere in it ,

and Yahoogroups Linvillegorge keeps a open forum running of Rockjock progress.

Finishing this beautiful trail is not going to be a one-day one-shot process , it will requre dedication. Go out and have a look. The Rockjock trail will speak for itself!

Bob Underwood

By Bob Underwood
From: greensboro
Apr 12, 2008

the US Forest service has opened the Rockjock trail from Conly Cove south to Mossy Canyon Ridge trail allowing a backpacker to return via MCRT to kistler Road

By Bob Underwood
From: greensboro
Sep 14, 2008

Work on Rockjock was finished by the USFS in Spring of 2008. This trail remains on the USFS Adopt-A-Trail program and will always need occasional maintenance. The southern exit shown on the USFS maps is mislabeled. It is a rim-to-River trail called MCRT (Mossy Canyon Ridge trail). MCRT is now a steep barren flag route thru the heart of fire blast from the 2007 'Pinnacle' fire. Since it is mislabeled as being the south end of Rockjock, it will become an erosion ditch with increased use. Rockjock TRail is unmaintained south of MCRT but continues along the rim of the Gorge 0.5 mile south to Pinchin and beyond all the way to the intersection of kistler Road and Dobson knob road. This fire-damaged trail is now survey flags thru thin scraggly brush but it is relatively flat and will not erode. Pinchin is the better exit. Rock face along this broken wall is a fantastic area of fracture and erosion but not much clean rock. --Bob

By Bob Underwood
From: greensboro
Sep 14, 2008

Correction to directions:

When you get to Forest Service Road 210 continue down this gently descending and very winding road. A mile past the parking areas for Spence Ridge Trail take a sharp right. This puts you on FSR 2105, the road that leads past OUTWARD BOUND and on up to Table Rock. Bring water as spring at TR is not reliable. Parking can be crowded at TR. Hyde's Linville Gorge Trail guide suggests that it is about as quick to park at Spence and hike up via the MST.

By EliShank
Apr 6, 2009

Is there a peregrine closure period for shortoff or north carolina wall?

By Phil York
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Jun 12, 2009

EliShank, yes.

You can keep updated on closures through the year here: www.carolinaclimbers.org/area-reports-mainmenu-30/linville-g>>>

By Jake Gounaris
Feb 25, 2010

Keep in mind that despite being in the south, Linville is not a winter rock climbing destination. Many areas are above or near 4,000 feet and get snow as early as late October.

By todd w
Mar 29, 2012

"Linville Gorge (Shortoff Mountain and NC Wall) closed from January 15th - August 15th"

Does anyone know if this includes the Amphitheater?

By andjoely
From: Menlo Park, CA
Mar 29, 2012

^No

By Jesh Plumb
Sep 25, 2013

Does anyone know where the best place to find beta for routes on the chimneys is?

By Reid Brooks
Oct 8, 2013

Just got back from Linville. Gate is open, and it seems that all climbing is accessible. Facilities (toilets and trash) are closed, but we had a great weekend climbing. It was very crowded on Sat and Sun.

By Robert Hutchins
Dec 3, 2013

"typically low angle" is a pretty poor characterization of Linville Gorge. That is fine for Table Rock, but the vast majority of climbing in Linville Gorge is quite steep, regardless of the grade. I recommend updating the region description so that people do not get the wrong impression.

By Nathan Burns
From: Dahlonega, GA
Dec 10, 2013

Any word on how the table rock fire has affected the area? I have never been to linville and wanted to go within the next few weeks to get on the daddy and the prow, but have no idea what conditions look like or what the trail situation is like

By Austin Pethan
From: Madison, WI
Mar 9, 2014

I will be heading to Asheville March 15-20, and am looking to climb a couple multipitch trad routes anywhere with suitable conditions. I am looking for a partner competent at climbing multipitch trad, and willing to take a friendly Midwesterner out for a day. I can supply a six pack of a fine a Wisconsin craft brew, and some of the best cheese in the country. I've done some multipitch alpine routes, and feel comfortable leading up to 5.9. Multipitch in Wisconsin means breaking a 100' route into two pitches, so I would really enjoy getting some air under my feet!

Thanks!

Austin

By John Braun
From: Hendersonville, NC
Mar 23, 2014

The road to Table Rock has a gate that is closed in the winter. If it is closed, you have to park at the gate and hike (or bike) another mile to the picnic area.

By bayouclimb
Apr 29, 2014

Best guide book for linville gorge/ north carolina?

By Jonathan Dull
From: NC High County
Apr 30, 2014

bayouclimb,

www.amazon.com/Selected-Climbs-North-Carolina-Lambert/dp/089>>>