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This has jugs and dynos. Do the same start as Melonstein. Traverse right across the sloping rail. Move up to the pocket and diagonal sidepull (the holds on Warm Up are off except for the starting sloper). Move up and right to the smiley face jug on Steinal Tap, up and right to a flat jug, down and right to another flat hold and finish right on the big finishing rail of Golf Ball.
Start on the Southwest arete, and traverse the entire south face.
1, 2, or more pads to protect the cruxes and bad fall from the finish and a spotter to haul them.
Jun 6, 2013
It goes. I like the new sequence better, too – super techy! The way I did it is solid V6, maybe V7.
I haven't tried it the old standard way by dynoing from the jug-crack to the former-jug rail; though, that would be tweaky and very, very difficult.
From the jug crack, I climb straight up, using a couple jugs that used to be "off" and then reach far right to a spot on the rail that is now a sloping crimp (this allows my left hand to use the best spot on the rail). I trade feet so that my left foot is on the large cobble and my right leg is flagging; I match my left hand on the rail next to my right so that it is on the one good crimp. Then I flag my right leg behind me, reaching down and right to a bad sidepull, which I use to bump out even farther and press down on the good, flat edge (it's a core-sapping move that requires some momentum; I never make the reach when I hesitate on the bump). Once my right hand is pressing down on the edge, I drop down onto a right toe-hold and bring my left hand down to a lower sidepull, which allows me to drop even lower and stand on a real foothold. From there, the finish is the same.
I have about a 6-foot wing span, and I use every inch of it for this sequence. Short people will likely have a hell of a time with this new problem. There is a shallow pocket that would allow you to stay low on the traverse, but that is certainly more powerful (and painful) than the sequence I used.
Now I've got to try the dyno on a day when my shoulders and fingers feel like they can handle the abuse....
Jul 3, 2013
I linked the traverse with the dyno a couple weeks ago – not as gnarly as I thought it would be! I ended up finding some slightly different beta from what I described above. I now keep my right foot on the big cobble with my right hand on the good left side of the rail and cross my left hand under, doing all kinds of flagging with my left leg, which makes the long reach easier. With the dyno, the entire traverse might still only be V6(+), as far as Redstone grades go.