From the Washington State Park's Page [www.parks.wa.gov/474/Beacon-Rock]: Beacon Rock offers excellent opportunities for rock climbing, and is considered to be some of the very best "Traditional Climbing" in the northwest. Climbers do need to be aware of where and when they climb due to management restrictions. Only the NW corner is open to climbing year round. The east face is closed year round due to environmental sensitivity. The rest of Beacon Rock is closed to rock climbing from February 1 to mid July annually to protect sensitive wildlife habitat. Call the park at (509) 427-8265 for more information.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This is a great link-up of classic (mostly) hand cracks that takes a direct line up the South Face, ending at the hiker's trail for an easy descent.
P1, Free for All (5.8 or 5.9): Start at a small detached pillar, climbing either the left or right sides. The left side is harder (given .10a in Portland Rock Climbs); if climbing it, bring a couple of slings to girth-hitch constrictions up high. From the pillar top, a seemingly endless exposed steep hand crack finally leads to a ledge. Climb up and slightly right past the ledge to a semi-hanging belay tucked deep inside a corner (rap hangers on right-hand wall). 150' pitch.
P2, Dod's Jam (5.10b): Lieback & stem your way up an off-width corner that's actually quite fun, not awkward. The crack narrows often enough to get good pro without having to lug any big pieces. From the top of the corner, monkey past a tree, then tackle an exquisite thin hands crack (.10b) splitting a steep, exposed face below the spacious Big Ledge.
P3, Dastardly Crack (5.9): Step left from Big Ledge into a deep right-facing corner. It's classic hands and stemming pretty much the whole way to the top, with the crux coming where the crack bulges about halfway up. Belay at rap hangers.
P4: Climb more or less straight up from the belay, then wander left up steps and into a corner system that ends right next to a switchback on the hiker's trail. This pitch is brushy, mossy, and dirty in places, but it's kinda fun in a perverse alpine sort of way.
Descent: Hike down the hiker's trail, or skip the last pitch and rap from the top of Dastardly Crack (double ropes needed?).
Toward the far left end of the South Face, past the Third Tunnel. Free For All starts up a small detached pillar just right of Free for Some and Windsurfer.
To 3". Great placements for both nuts and cams (bring both). Nothing tiny needed.
Photos of Link-up: Free for All/Dod's Jam/Dastardly Crack Slideshow
With a 60m rope and about 20 ft. of simu climbing you can reach the trail in one pitch totally forgoing a fourth pitch. Its a good way to go, especially if you like chos and P.O. I would recommend rapping instead. Shouldn't need two ropes.
Leading the 2nd pitch of Dods Jam it says here you don't need any big pieces, but that is inaccurate. You can feather in some small stuff in the back of the crack but its questionable. Much better to just bring a #4 and #5 for bomber placements in the offwidth section and run it out IMO, then a bunch of crappy small gear.
By GhaMby From: Heaven Aug 8, 2011 rating: 5.10c6b20VIIE2 5b
We dragged a 4 & 5 and I appreciated not having to mess with the little funky pieces you would need.
Dodd's is solid 10c, despite all these tough guy sandbagger's on here, and Dastardly Crack is 10a! Even with these ratings you'll feel like you're working for the grade!
By Colin Parker Administrator From: Idyllwild, CA Aug 8, 2011 rating: 5.10c6b20VIIE2 5b
I agree with Sweagan on the ratings comments. As for the last 'pitch', you can combine it with Dastardly crack if you have a 70m, but make sure you save some wider gear (3-4") for the last bit to the hiker's trail. The section above the anchor for Dastardly Crack is not to be taken lightly.
I suppose you could funk around with wide pro, but it really isn't necessary.
I lead the p2 offwidth all the time with just two large stoppers, each placed in an utterly bomb slot - one at 1/3 and the other at 2/3s of the way up the offwidth. Both can be placed from solid, stemmed stances.
Both placements are classic and couldn't be more solid; they are however back a ways in the crack (but obvious if you are looking) so each needs an extended trad draw. I use an HB Alloy offset #11 for the first slot and a Wild Country Rock #11 (green) for the second.
This healyje guy is handing out bad advice. Loose flakes in the crack are from someone taking a fall on a stopper and ripping the flake out. Big cam for that section is the answer.
By slim Administrator May 22, 2012 rating: 5.10b6a+19VII-E2 5b
i have to agree with james comment. the gear comment is pretty lame. sure, anybody who climbs dod's a 100 times could do it with 2 stoppers. most people on it their first time will be glad they brought a piece or 2 to fist/off-fist size.
Well, James, maybe you've just been too damn busy on the pitch to actually bother looking at it, but at 1/3 and 2/3 of the way up p2 there are two absolutely BOMB large stopper slots. Nothing about either placement is remotely loose, a result of "someone falling on a stopper", in any way fragile, or fiddly - both are simple drop-in bomb slots available from good stem stances and I'd happily dive on either one all day long.
We did this line yesterday. I brought 2 4 inch cams for the offwidth on Dod's. I could see the nut placements Joseph talks about. But my god, who wouldn't just want to walk a couple big cams with them for the second half of the pitch instead of sketching and fussing about with their arm 3 feet back in the crack? The extra weight of the cams is pretty trivial given this pitch is vertical, not overhanging. Joe, i love you, but your advice is pretty specific to nuts like you who have this wired and can lead it with just 2 nuts on your rack. (Also Dastardly, which I always love, would be 10a whether it was at Smith Rock's Lower Gorge, Joshua Tree, Paradise Forks, Broughton, etc. Or just call it 9plus?)