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Middle East Wall
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Lingerie 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Dane Burns and Jay Koopsen 85'
Page Views: 1,542
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Jun 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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An early ascent of Lingerie, 1985. It was never i...

Description 

Spectacular finger crack!

The first 25 feet are insecure and pumpy with delicate footwork. Above the locks improve greatly and it is possible to reast via stemming over to Sex Party. It's not over though....

Chain anchor.

Location 

Right of Sex Party.

Protection 

rack to 1" mostly small cams and nuts.


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By Dane
Dec 17, 2008
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Lingerie was originally never envisioned or rated as a stemming problem or a top rope. Lingerie gets rated from 5.11a to .12a depending on finger size and if you stem off of Sex party, which is easy to do. A bit contrived as a straight in crack but one of the best at Vantage done in that manner. Originally, when the crack and edges were still intact it was the "big brother" of Jihad.