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Linear Encounters 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
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Page Views: 1,058
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jul 24, 2007
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Description 

Linear Encounters is a good crack climb with a difficult start and a scary face climbing finish. Begin in a steep left-facing flare (crux), and continue up, eventually onto the finishing face protected by a relic bashie.


Protection 

Standard rack.



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By Rob Dillon
Jul 24, 2007

The first time I ever visited the New, my partner and I walked around without a guidebook, picking out routes to climb as if no one had ever been there before. It was a satisfying and engaging way to experience the area, and one that I should employ more often. One of the routes we got on was Linear Encounters. Great crack climbing led to a facey topout, NBD. Later on we looked this one up in the book and found it to be rated .11aR, a grading which would definitely have kept me off it had I toted the book along. As it happens, the R isn't the .11a, so no biggie; it's more like 5.9 PG13 as Josh suggests. Sometimes one's own judgment is superior to the received wisdom, I guess. The only other place I regularly climb established routes without some sort of beta is at Indian Creek; I suppose I like the security of knowing more or less what sort of pro and moves I'll be getting into. Anyhow, Linear Encounters is excellent, and you should do it.

By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 7, 2007

I agree with Rob, the hard moves are in the well protected lower portion of this climb. The copperhead protecting the upper section can also be backed up with some very small gear. The finish is rather exciting and this part of the route stuck with me much more than the awesome crack for at the crux. Don't discard this route because of the R rating in the book.

By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Oct 14, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c R

I remember being pumped and gripped at the top and didn't have any confidence in the fixed copperhead, which if I remember right is hammered in a horizontal crack. I don't know much about strength of these things but I wouldn't even hang on it. I didn't know how to back it up with the gear I had and I felt like that section was "R" but, I guess, that's subjective. Really great route otherwise.

By nbrown
From: western NC
Jan 4, 2008

Classic crack climbing! That copperhead does look like crap, and would certainly be better (relatively) if it were a circlehead. But, considering it's age and the amount of traffic that route recieves, it must be a pretty bomber piece (once again, relatively).

By Rob Dillon
Nov 7, 2011

Or maybe people who can climb the hard part don't fall later where it's easier.

By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Mar 19, 2012

The bashie looks about as solid as one could be, but I've never heard of anyone falling on it. You can also get a pretty good purple tcu in the same horizontal crack. I don't think it really warrants an R rating, or even a PG13.

By Alex Garhart
Oct 21, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

This is a fantastic route that has good gear all the way, definitely not R rated.

By Sam Stephens
Feb 26, 2014

Am I the only one who thought this was really hard for 11a? I mean it was just flat out tough.