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 ADVANCED
The Dark Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
27 Tons 
Animatronic 
Asym 
Audition, The 
Beginner's Outing 
Black 'N Dicey 
Black Awareness 
Black Dihedral 
Blank Frank 
Bonnie 
Call From Overseas 
Clyde 
Corner Pockets 
Counter Balance 
Crack Happens 
Crack's On Top, The 
Crown of Thorns aka Box Lunch aka Lou Raven's Rest 
Dark Side Roofs 
Eagle has Landed, The 
Eat, Drink, and Beat Larry 
Edge Of Fright 
El Guapo 
Enchanted Porkfist 
Face The Music 
Fat Like Butta 
Fight or Flight 
Fragile 
Go East, Old Man 
Hangers Regained 
I Scare Myself 
Kashmere 
Kinesthesia 
Levels of the Game 
Line of Strength 
Lumina 
Mannequin 
Missing Hangers 
Muted by Reality 
Plum, The 
Porkus Procurement 
Puddle Of Holes 
Punjabi 
Redlined 
Rip It 
Route Fluffer 
Shelf Road Virgin 
Stink Finger 
Stuck in the Middle With You 
Suspender Man 
Teenage Wristband 
Thank Heaven for Little Girls 
Trolling For Holds 
Two Hearts 
U Pump It 
Unknown 
Viaggro 
Void Lloyd 
Way We Were, The 
Welcoming, The 
Whisper To A Scream 

Line of Strength 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b R

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Goddard/D'Antonio
Page Views: 752
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Sep 17, 2005
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

Line of Strength is located on the right side of the Dark Side, a few climbs to the right of The Audition. It has an undercut start with a very high first bolt. Stick clip the first bolt and climb a tough boulder problem off the ground. The route then follows well-spaced bolts to a cruxy section on the upper black face. The upper section is quite [spicy] with one bolt protecting the final 35 feet of 11/11+ climbing.

This is all-time Shelf classic that is a bit old school. Consider that LOS has only 6 bolts in 80-90 feet of climbing, whereas its neighbor, Two Hearts, has 11 bolts with the same route length. Judging by the absence of chalk on the sections which are exposed to rain, the amount of dooky on the route, and the amount of dust and other debris on some ledges and huecos, this route sees virtually zero traffic. In addition to the slightly runout climbing, the bolts are in need of an upgrade. All bolts are 3/8 to 1/2 inch, but have badly spinning old SMC hangers. For all I know, the hardware is from the first ascent.

The 3-star rating assumes a hardware upgrade and sufficient traffic to keep the route clean. Its slightly runout nature is part of the routes appeal, however, and in my opinion, should be maintained. Nevertheless, a hardware upgrade would give this deserving classic at least some traffic. Best to avoid this route in the spring since the enormous hanging flake on the lower part of the route appears to be quite popular with birds.


Protection 

6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.



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By b hof
From: Pueblo West, CO
Jul 21, 2013
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

Don't let the R scare you away from this route, the bolts are right where you need them and all the falls are clean. If there aren't enough bolts for you, a red tricam can be used in between the 5th and 6th in a small flare right before the 5.11ish mantle.