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Line Of Addiction T 

Line Of Addiction 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, 900', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: FA: Unknown FFA: Chad Umbel & Brian Bowman
Page Views: 664
Submitted By: chad umbel on Oct 16, 2007

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Description 

I gave this route 4 stars not because the climbing is superb (which it is) but because of the whole outing. A beautiful hike in a perfect canyon, a great natural line, and amazing positioning. Line Of Addiction is a fine route on a remote wall. The climbing is sustained and the rock is pretty much all good except for a few places. It has great protection at the cruxes but does have some runout sections on easier to moderate terrain. I don't know the history of this route or how, when, or who installed the bolts. But thanks for the hard work.

Pitch 1) 5.9+: Start cruising up a nice flake system eventually gaining a foot sized ledge below a nice splitter system. Climb this for about 40 feet up to a an anchor with a semi-hanging stance below a beutiful off-width/layback..

Pitch 2) 5.10b: Start up the beutiful offwidth, right arm in. Really nice chickenwingin. About 30 feet up you'll start layin this puppy back for some beautiful climbing. Clip bolts for pro. Gain another anchor with another semi-hangin stance.

Pitch 3) 5.11a: Climb straigh left off the belay doing a move (5.10) to gain the perfect 4 inch crack in a right facing corner. Lay this back for about 40 feet until it turns to hands and you can milk a rest before finishing the pitch. Another anchor will be at a stance.

Pitch 4&5 can combine) 5.10c: Start climbing up and left off the belay and gain an arete (bolt) then go back right into the corner. Follow this past a two bolt anchor and keep goin up the corner. About twenty-five feet from your anchor this corner will pinch off to nothing and you'll bust out onto the face. Gain another anchor.

Pitch 6) 5.7: Climb up and left off the belay. No pro for about 60 feet. The climbing is easy but be careful for loose patina. Gain a nice sized ledge with an anchor.

Pitch 7) 5.11+: Climb straight up off the belay on some pretty crumby rock. You will start heading for a tiny seam left of an arete. You will be pretty far off you gear here. There is a crucial Yellow/Green Offset Alien placement in this seam that will give you the confidence to make your next sequence of moves. Climb out onto the arete leaving you with some really big exposure but rad moves (5.10ish). Climb up the arete on the right side aiming for the obvious overhanging corner.

Again you're gonna be pretty far off that Alien placement but the climbing isn't outrageous. Clip a bolt and depump. Start climbing up the beutiful corner using some weird stems and eventually gaining some beautiful fingerlocks in the corner. It gets steeper as you go but the locks and holds get better. This pitch is awesome. Gain a ledge and an anchor. If you've sent to here, it's in the bag.

Pitch 8) 5.6: Climb straigh up off the anchor heading up and left. Follow this aiming for a way out to your left until you come to a slabby wall with a few little moves and eventually gain a chimney. Climb the chimney until you get to a tree. Belay off the tree and when your partner gets to you, climb towards the summit behind you. Enjoy your beer and the view.

Location 

Approach as for Pirate Wall. Line Of Addiction is on the left side of the wall. If you go down under the big roof you went to far West. There is a big pine tree at the start of the first pitch. Rappel the route with two ropes as directed. Down climb a few moves (big air below) from the East Face of the formation to a ledged with a tree. Do a little rap here if the exposure is too much. Then Rap straight down the face. I think the first anchor is a bolt and a stopper equalized. Then just bomber two bolt anchors the rest of the way down. 4 or 5 double rope raps should get you down.

Protection 

Single set of cams to a 4 inch camalot. Doubles on number 4 for pitch 3. RP's, Offset Aliens are nice. Green/Yellow offset Alien is crucial. Two 60 meter ropes.


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By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Oct 17, 2007

Great job guys. I have viewed this area several times in the last year after putting up several routes on the blood wall and descending down your approach gulley. Line of Addiction is a stunning line and is quite a proud free ascent. This area would be riddled with routes if not for the lengthy approach. I have some good overview pics I'll try to post when I get a chance to link my laptop up with the web.
By Josh Janes
Sep 14, 2013
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

I had a great time climbing this route. This is the line to do on the back side of Wilson.

A few thoughts on the rack: You could get away with a single set from 0.2 BD to #4 BD Camalots, wires, and a 70m rope. I think I found the crucial spot for the green/yellow Hybrid Alien, but I thought a normal green Alien (or similar cam) would have fit just as well if not better. I placed a single RP (#6 BD Micro Stopper) above the Alien, but I could have managed just fine without RP's at all. With one #4 my partner had to walk it on the third pitch but it appeared casual.

Regarding the 70m rope: You could descend from the top of the crux pitch without any problems using a single 70 and stopping at every anchor, and you could actually rap from the top of the formation to the top of the crux pitch if you rapped diagonally down and climber's left along a ramp and were willing to down-climb about 10 (easy) feet.

Regardless, bring a half-dozen quicklinks and rap rings to properly equip all the anchors (not all of them are set up ideally for rappel).

Chad's description more or less combines the last two pitches which includes some 5.9 climbing and isn't just 5.6. Everything after the crux pitch is pretty chossy but the summit is kinda cool.

This is a good route that could be a great route if it cleans up a bit and was slightly re-engineered.
By Xavier Wasiak
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 17, 2013

Regarding pitch 3, I would suggest bringing the extra #4. "Casual" is relative and at points the #4 threatened to tip out, potentially ruining what was a really fun and great day. You can always leave it at the anchor and pick it up on the way down. Regarding the approach, it seemed you can make quicker time staying on the northern side of the final drainage until the very end.