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Lincoln Lake Slabs

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Another Load of Ginormous Excitement (aka The Cichon Variation) T 
Columbine Crack T 
Dan Hare's Route T 
Double Exposure T 
Emancipation Arete S 
Ewoks Don't Sport Climb T 
Gettysburg Address S 
Golden Slab T 
Jabba T 
Kneel Armstrong T 
Lincoln Lake Apron T 
Loose Bolt Slab T 
Pika S 
Secret Ramp T 
Short Arete S 
Sport Dike S 
Uncle Puffy S 

Lincoln Lake Slabs  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 12,500'
Location: 39.6178, -105.6056 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 15,589
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jason Kaplan on Jul 7, 2008
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Description 

This is a pristine alpine setting just down a ways off the side of the road! There are a few walls around 100-200 feet with what seems to be no development. There are a few possible line options some of which could be free routes and some of which are aid routes to all but the mutants. Also there is some adventure bouldering to be had through out Lincoln Park (don't even ask for beta do a search or just go take a look yourself).

Per Ken Trout:
This granitic cliff may become famous someday as the highest altitude almost-roadside-crag on the continent. The slabs overlook Lincoln Lake and are just below the Mt. Evans Road; a pleasant alternative to the gnarly Black Wall.

During the hot summer of 2012, a lot of new routes were developed. Most of the slabs are inside a wilderness boundary. Any drilling should be done by hand.

The slabs get sun in the morning and can feel a little warm when temperature climbs to 100+F in Denver. The afternoon shade can feel wonderfully cold when the heat is on. If the weather is not stormy, then after-work ascents are possible. It is about 90 minutes of driving from downtown Denver.

The Lincoln Lake Apron (5.7+) and Jabba (5.11-) probably have the best rock.

The cracks had been kept somewhat secret for several decades because there are a lot of columbine flowers at the base. Please tread carefully and keep the dog tied up tight.

Never trust a mountain goat, they are creepy and even kill people sometimes. One tried to get at me from the rim while I was hand drilling the anchor for Loose Bolt, but I was out of reach.

Overview topo.
Overview topo.


L->R:

A. Ewoks Don't Sport Climb, 10 A2 R, 1p, 70', bolts, gear.
BColumbine Crack, 10, 1p, 70', gear.
C. Jabba, 11- or ?C1-2?, 1p, 110', gear.
D. Sport Dike, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. Uncle Puffy, 11-, 1p, bolts.
F. Gettysburg Address, 12, 1p, 70', bolts.
G. Pika, 8, 1p, bolts.
H1. Another Load of Ginormous Excitement (aka The Cichon Variation), 11, 1p, 65', gear.
H2. Kneel Armstrong, 10+, 1p, 60', bolts & gear.
J. Double Exposure, 10-, 2p, 200', gear & bolts.
K. Dan Hare's Route, 9 PG-13, 2p, 220', gear.
L. Loose Bolt Slab, 10- PG-13, 1p, 140', bolts & gear.
M. Golden Slab, 8+ PG-13, 1p, 110', gear.

above N and left. Emancipation Arete, 10-, 1p, 130', bolts.
N. Lincoln Lake Apron, 7+ PG-13, 4p, 350', bolts & gear.

O. Secret Ramp, 9+ PG-13, 1p, 100', bolts & gear.
P. Unknown, 10 R?, gear & bolt?
Q. Short Arete, 9+, 1p, 60', bolts +/- gear.

Mount Evans, CO.
Mount Evans, CO.


Eds. note, this is a combination of 2 submissions that describe the same area. To avoid duplication and confusion, this has been combined. For what it is worth, "Lincoln Lakes Slab" and Jabba are noted in an old Rock & Ice article Issue #32 and Peter Hubbel's 1993 Front Range Crags guidebook on page 175.

Getting There 

Drive up CO Hwy 103 to Mt. Evans and go up Evans. There is a long lake on the left (Lincolin Lake) before you get to Summit Lake, with some obvious rock features about 1000 feet above (right next to the road). There are a couple small pulloffs on the dropoff side of the road at and after the corner just as you pass over the top of the last cliff.

Per Ken Trout: The Mt. Evans road curves around the cirque containing Lincoln Lake. The best way to hike down is from the far left (south) end of the crag. Parking is best where the road bends away from the cirque on the way to Summit Lake. Other small parking spots exist and there is usually a lot of room by the roadside snowbank at the head of the cirque.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.2 miles from here

17 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',4],['5.10',5],['5.11',4],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lincoln Lake Slabs:
Lincoln Lake Apron   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 350'   
Pika   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 70'   
Golden Slab   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 110'   
Double Exposure   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 200'   
Emancipation Arete   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 130'   
Sport Dike   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 60'   
Uncle Puffy   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100'   
Jabba   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 110'   
Gettysburg Address   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Classics in Lincoln Lake Slabs

Featured Route For Lincoln Lake Slabs
Just getting to the base of the route.

Jabba 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c  CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Lincoln Lake Slabs
On the first ascent the start felt slimy; like Jabba the Hutt from the movie The Empire Strikes Back (opened 1985). There are two good rest stances that divide the route into three rounds. Almost every move feels 5.10. The first round starts after 20 feet of 3rd class approach. Begin the real climbing with big reaches past tundra clumps. Then a finger crack leads to a reach right into the main crack. Finally, sustained finger jams and laybacks end at the first rest stanc...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Lincoln Lake Slabs
Photos of Lincoln Lake Slabs Slideshow Add Photo
Ken and Marsha Trout on Emancipation Arete.
Ken and Marsha Trout on Emancipation Arete.
Traditional lines on Lincoln's Wall Area.
Traditional lines on Lincoln's Wall Area.
Lincoln Buttress with some awesome trad lines.
Lincoln Buttress with some awesome trad lines.
Lincoln's Wall.
BETA PHOTO: Lincoln's Wall.
Test photo.
BETA PHOTO: Test photo.
The lake and some of the indigenous fauna (pad peo...
The lake and some of the indigenous fauna (pad peo...
Flower covered approach and belay ledge for Columb...
Flower covered approach and belay ledge for Columb...
Lincoln Lake Slabs area.
Lincoln Lake Slabs area.
Ken tops out on the FA of Emancipation Arete.
Ken tops out on the FA of Emancipation Arete.
Lincoln Lake Slabs.
BETA PHOTO: Lincoln Lake Slabs.
The Jabba buttress.
BETA PHOTO: The Jabba buttress.

Comments on Lincoln Lake Slabs Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joe Varela
Oct 3, 2010
Park near the 6 mile marker. Anyone else know of other established routes here?
By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Mar 13, 2013
Isn't this the same as Lincoln Lake Slabs ?
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Mar 14, 2013
They are the same. I've had trouble convincing people that Jabba/Under Colorado's Cloudy Skies is worthy. So I was super psyched to see Jason Kaplan's post, even though we had previously named and free-climbed the crack. I know he's a believer! But, I couldn't bring myself to abandon my old and previously published nomenclature. I like having both versions.

(Aiding on Jabba is certainly recommendable wall training!)

By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Mar 14, 2013
Thanks for adding this, Ken.
I agree that the proper name for the area should be used. With all due respect to the person who submitted "Lincoln's Wall"...he didn't realize routes had been done there years before and the area had a name.

Cheers,

josh
By Kevin Stricker
From: Evergreen, CO
Mar 24, 2013
I believe that most of this cliff is actually on Denver Mountain Park land unfortunately. I always find it interesting that "we" sold some of our wilderness lands so that a road could be developed where otherwise not even a mountain bike could go.

Just a heads up, probably not the best idea to post up routes here although I do know of some additional development done on the right side of the cliff in recent years. There is a good map on the Evans Wilderness site that shows which parts of the cliff are actually on wilderness, but it is only a small section.
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Jul 2, 2013
Kevin's comment had me a bit worried and so some research was done. I found a very accurate map published by Denver Parks and Recreation. Lincoln Lake is colored as Forest Service land. Whew!

Here is a link to the Denver Parks map: denvergov.org/Portals/747/docu...

I would agree with Kevin's interpretation of the wilderness boundary as shown on maps; most of the slabs appear to be outside the wilderness and within the Mt Evans Road buffer zone.