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DescriptionHigh quality bouldering on sharply-textured granite awaits urban adventurers in Lincoln Woods State Park, a few miles north of Providence, R.I. It is entirely fitting that Little Rhody's best climbing is on the small stones. Biking and walking trails link clusters of boulders, set among picnic areas and ponds. The climbing season extends deep into winter here, when sunny days in the 20s and 30s invite beanie-headed pebble wrestlers to enjoy killer friction with handwarmers simmering in chalkbags and wool socks stuffed in pockets. An excellent guidebook is complemented by beta on Newenglandbouldering.com. Getting ThereFrom Rt. 146, the Twin River Road exit gains a park entrance by turning east (left)at the end of the ramp. Once in the park, find roadside parking near the T intersection and follow the road left from the T through a gate. Follow the road right, between ponds, to the warm-up area (visable up hill on left). Park access is available from other entrances, too. Alternatively, if the gates are open, you can take a right after entering the park and drive all the way around the pond to get closer to to some of the bouldering. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lincoln Woods:
The Wave V2 Boulder, 20 feet Great Slab / Wave Boulder
Peace Dove V2+ Boulder, 12 feet Peace Dove Boulder
Mack's Traverse V2+ Boulder, 25 feet Warm Up Area : Mack's traverse
The Quiet Buddhist V3 Boulder, 12 feet Pond Cave
Iron Cross V4 Boulder Warm Up Area : Iron Cross Boulder
Neil's Lunge V4 Boulder, 12 feet Warm Up Area : Warm Up Cave
The Pond Cave Traverse V4 Boulder, 15 feet Pond Cave
Heart of Glass V4 Boulder, 12 feet Heart Boulder
The Executioner V4+ Boulder, 15 feet The Tombstone
Try Again V5 Boulder Try Again Boulder
Sit Down Traverse V5 Boulder, 20 feet sit down area
Loadies Zen V6-7 Boulder Try Again Boulder
Straight Again V7 Boulder Try Again Boulder
Last Call V7 Boulder, 15 feet Talus Boulder
Who Needs Hueco V8 Boulder, 8 feet Pond Cave
Diesel V8 Boulder Try Again Boulder
Barbed Wire V8 Boulder Tuolumne Boulder
hueco dreams V9 Boulder, 18 feet Pond Cave
The Chelsea Smile (aka...Divine Providence Sit) V13-14 Boulder Super Crack 2
Featured Route For Lincoln Woods
Super Crack 2 V2 Rhode Island : Lincoln Woods : Super Crack 2
Obvious arching finger crack up the left face of the huge slab. Perhaps one of the only true highballs at Lincoln Woods. Back breaker rock blade below the crux topout. ...[more] Browse More Classics in Rhode Island
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