For decades I assumed someone else like Bill Forrest, George Lowe, Noel Childs, Jeff Lowe, or Dan Hare had done this route. Maybe we all thought: "Naaah! It's too easy." Surprisingly, the apron has 3 really good pitches following thin cracks and dikes.
Originally the route ended with a terribly dangerous friction run out on the most suspect holds of the climb. Later, I rapped in and added a bolt. The first three belays are equipped with rappel hardware on double bolt anchors, so we can all get down with single 60 meter rope if it rains (hand drilled). The first pitch starts at 12,000 feet above sea level in an alpine paradise close to a paved road. LINCOLN LAKE APRON TOPO ROUTE DESCRIPTION
Pitch one is only 30 meters long and ends at a nice ledge with two bolts. Start up a thin crack, step right to another thin seam that dead-ends, and then move left to a corner. The gear in these seams
is tricky. PITCH ONE, THE LONG REACH
It is possible to make a long reach to place a #3 Camalot in the corner's big crack, before committing to the leftward step-across. Another big cam is handy a few moves up, before committing to a mossy, left hand jam and another big step out right to better holds. A few moves higher, move left again across the top of the corner and up left even more to the belay (5.7+, PG-13). PITCHES TWO AND THREE
Pitch two has a tricky step left to change cracks. There is a two bolt anchor on a dike foothold at 30 meters, handy for escaping storms. Or just use one of the bolts for pro and keep going up a beautiful dike to the top. Near the top, the nice holds thin out and the rock gets crumbly, but a bolt protects that bit. There is a third bolted rap anchor at the top of the slab. Alternatively, you can belay off fat-finger-sized cams up left on a nice ledge. 4TH CLASS TO THE TOP
I like to do one more roped pitch straight up. It is mostly very easy, but there is a final, 5.2, squeeze/bulge where a hand or finger-sized cam is nice.
It is possible to connect to a harder sport pitch for an exposed finish on Emancipation Arete
. Traverse left and down until a semi-hanging two bolt belay is found.
LINCOLN LAKE ROUTE SUMMARY
The exposed finish marked in yellow.
A full rack up to #3 Camalot.