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Lincoln Lake Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Another Load of Ginormous Excitement (aka The Cichon Variation) T 
Columbine Crack T 
Dan Hare's Route T 
Double Exposure T 
Emancipation Arete S 
Ewoks Don't Sport Climb T 
Gettysburg Address S 
Golden Slab T 
Jabba T 
Kneel Armstrong T 
Lincoln Lake Apron T 
Loose Bolt Slab T 
Pika S 
Secret Ramp T 
Short Arete S 
Sport Dike S 
Uncle Puffy S 

Lincoln Lake Apron 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 350', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Ken Trout, Marsha Trout, Jeroen vanWolferen, Andrew
Season: summer
Page Views: 3,869
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Mar 17, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Lincoln Lake Apron (in lavender).

Description 

For decades I assumed someone else like Bill Forrest, George Lowe, Noel Childs, Jeff Lowe, or Dan Hare had done this route. Maybe we all thought: "Naaah! It's too easy." Surprisingly, the apron has 3 really good pitches following thin cracks and dikes.

Originally the route ended with a terribly dangerous friction run out on the most suspect holds of the climb. Later, I rapped in and added a bolt. The first three belays are equipped with rappel hardware on double bolt anchors, so we can all get down with single 60 meter rope if it rains (hand drilled). The first pitch starts at 12,000 feet above sea level in an alpine paradise close to a paved road.

LINCOLN LAKE APRON TOPO
Zoom.
Zoom.


ROUTE DESCRIPTION
First ascent afternoon shade.
First ascent
afternoon shade.

Pitch one is only 30 meters long and ends at a nice ledge with two bolts. Start up a thin crack, step right to another thin seam that dead-ends, and then move left to a corner. The gear in these seams
is tricky.
PITCH ONE, THE LONG REACH
First ascent.
First ascent.

It is possible to make a long reach to place a #3 Camalot in the corner's big crack, before committing to the leftward step-across. Another big cam is handy a few moves up, before committing to a mossy, left hand jam and another big step out right to better holds. A few moves higher, move left again across the top of the corner and up left even more to the belay (5.7+, PG-13).

PITCHES TWO AND THREE
Pitch two, first ascent.
Pitch two, first ascent.

Pitch two has a tricky step left to change cracks. There is a two bolt anchor on a dike foothold at 30 meters, handy for escaping storms. Or just use one of the bolts for pro and keep going up a beautiful dike to the top. Near the top, the nice holds thin out and the rock gets crumbly, but a bolt protects that bit. There is a third bolted rap anchor at the top of the slab. Alternatively, you can belay off fat-finger-sized cams up left on a nice ledge.
4TH CLASS TO THE TOP
First ascent.
First ascent.

I like to do one more roped pitch straight up. It is mostly very easy, but there is a final, 5.2, squeeze/bulge where a hand or finger-sized cam is nice.

It is possible to connect to a harder sport pitch for an exposed finish on Emancipation Arete. Traverse left and down until a semi-hanging two bolt belay is found.
The exposed finish marked in yellow.
The exposed finish marked in yellow.


LINCOLN LAKE ROUTE SUMMARY
Overview topo.
Overview topo.


Location 

APPROACH MAP
Mount Evans, CO.
Mount Evans, CO.


Protection 

A full rack up to #3 Camalot.


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By Kendrick Dane
Aug 6, 2014

I found P2 to be the more difficult pitch, and I thought it was more deserving of the PG-13 rating than P1. The dike area is blank and crumbly, and despite the low angle of the slab, requires delicate foot smearing and micro-crimp hands, especially up high. The bolt Ken added about 1/2 way up the P2 slab was very welcome for chickens like me--even with the bolt, the leader faces a 40 foot low-angle fall by the time they get to it. AWESOME climb!