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L to R R to L Alpha
For decades I assumed someone else like Bill Forrest, George Lowe, Noel Childs, Jeff Lowe, or Dan Hare had done this route. Maybe we all thought: "Naaah! It's too easy." Surprisingly, the apron has 3 really good pitches following thin cracks and dikes.
Pitch one is only 30 meters long and ends at a nice ledge with two bolts. Start up a thin crack, step right to another thin seam that dead-ends, and then move left to a corner. The gear in these seams
PITCH ONE, THE LONG REACH
It is possible to make a long reach to place a #3 Camalot in the corner's big crack, before committing to the leftward step-across. Another big cam is handy a few moves up, before committing to a mossy, left hand jam and another big step out right to better holds. A few moves higher, move left again across the top of the corner and up left even more to the belay (5.7+, PG-13).
PITCHES TWO AND THREE
Pitch two has a tricky step left to change cracks. There is a two bolt anchor on a dike foothold at 30 meters, handy for escaping storms. Or just use one of the bolts for pro and keep going up a beautiful dike to the top. Near the top, the nice holds thin out and the rock gets crumbly, but a bolt protects that bit. There is a third bolted rap anchor at the top of the slab. Alternatively, you can belay off fat-finger-sized cams up left on a nice ledge.
4TH CLASS TO THE TOP
I like to do one more roped pitch straight up. It is mostly very easy, but there is a final, 5.2, squeeze/bulge where a hand or finger-sized cam is nice.
It is possible to connect to a harder sport pitch for an exposed finish on Emancipation Arete. Traverse left and down until a semi-hanging two bolt belay is found.
LINCOLN LAKE ROUTE SUMMARY
A full rack up to #3 Camalot.