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Lincoln Creek
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Finger Food Wall 
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Sunset Cliff 

Lincoln Creek 


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Administrators: Alvaro Arnal, Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Mike C. Robinson on Mar 1, 2007

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Lincoln Creek

Description 

This area has a mix of sport and trad routes, 1-2 pitches in length. There are a number of crags in this area. It has great climbing and is perfect for the summer. Everyone I have met in this area has only left me with good things to say about them. Like the rest of the Pass, it has exceptional quality and number of routes. Don't miss this area if you are on the Pass. Pick up Tom Perkins' Independence Pass Climbing for routes descriptions.


Getting There 

This area is 10 miles west of Aspen and 28 miles east of Twin Lakes off of CO 82. Look for Lincoln Creek Gulch Campground and park in any number of places off this side road to get to desired crag here.


Organization 

Parking area next to CO 82
. Sunset Boulder - bouldering
. The Cube - bouldering
. Phat City
. Jimmy Cliff
. Sunset Cliff
. Lincoln Creen Cliff
Just shy of Lincoln Creek Campground
. The Egg- bouldering
. The Brain
. The Burger Shack Area
. Finger Food Wall
. Sunset Cantina
Lincoln Creek Campground - fee area
. Outhouse Wall - bouldering
. Campground Rock
. Intruders
Further up the road
. The Treasure Chest - bouldering
Campsite 5 areas
. Campsite 5 Wall - bouldering
. Beatle Juice - bouldering
. The Boulder - bouldering
. Brothel Wall
. Saloon
. Monastery
. Reese's Pieces


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lincoln Creek:
Big Mac Crack   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch   Finger Food Wall
Sunset Crack   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 65 feet   Sunset Cliff
All You Can Eat   5.8     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Sunset Cantina
Taco Time   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch   Finger Food Wall
Haywire   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Lincoln Creek Cliff
Cardo's Corner   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet   Lincoln Creek Cliff
Peruvian Flake   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Lincoln Creek Cliff
Unnecessary Buffness   5.10a/b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Sunset Cliff
I'll be Black   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Sunset Cliff
Mill and Main   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Phat City
Sweaty Betty   5.10d     Trad, 2 pitches, 130 feet   Phat City
Treeline   5.11a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet   Phat City
Predator   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Sunset Cliff
Dean's Day Off   5.12a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 115 feet   Lincoln Creek Cliff
The Avenger   5.13a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Sunset Cliff
Wrong Side of the Tracks   5.13-     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Sunset Cliff
Browse More Classics in Lincoln Creek

Featured Route For Lincoln Creek
Jay Knower sticks the crux of The Avenger.

The Avenger 5.13a PG13  CO : Independence Pass : ... : Sunset Cliff
This stunning crack and face route is perhaps the best single trad pitch I've done in Colorado. Overhanging and sustained with a crux throw at 2/3rds height. It was a long time project first attempted by Jeff Hollenbaugh in the early 90s on gear. It was then bolted and projected by Tom Perkins, but still remained unclimbed. After climbing the route on gear, and receiving Tom's permission, I removed the unnecessary bolts. (There are still a few bolts that need to be removed as of 6/27/06). The ro...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Comments on Lincoln Creek Add Comment
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By Giulio
From: Waterville, ME
Jul 19, 2007

Any Burger Shack Beta?

By David Hodges
From: Parker, Colorado
Jul 19, 2007

PM me with what specific items you are looking for, I've climbed there a few times.

By Giulio
From: Waterville, ME
Jul 20, 2007

I'm mainly curious about grades and protection. I'm also not exactly sure how to get there. Thanks

By Greg
From: Santa Cruz, CA
Aug 4, 2007

Gorg,

Climbed at the Burger Shack today ....take Lincoln Creek Campground road, across bridge...head down about 1/4 mile to a sharp, right, hairpin turn, can't miss it.

Burger Shack trail is on the left, right before the hairpin turn.

Grades? I climbed stuff up to 5.8+ ish...trad or toprope with bolt anchors.

Have fun and be safe.

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Oct 4, 2010

Does anyone have any beta on the huge boulder resting in the creek 100 yds from the turnoff for LC and just off of Colo 82? While driving down to the camping we checked out this magnificant boulder. There was some chalk on it, so someone has been using it. However, this is a highball specialist's boulder, and it looks very hard in some places.

By Unassigned User
Aug 11, 2011

Not very good directions. There's like 20 pulloffs if not more.