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Lincoln Creek Cliff

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L to R R to L Alpha
Cardo's Corner T 
Cramper T 
Dad's Day Off T 
Dean's Day Off T 
Haywire T 
Honest Abe T,S 
Landslide T 
Peruvian Flake T 
Sauerkraut T,S 

Lincoln Creek Cliff 


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Administrators: Alvaro Arnal, Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Sep 6, 2007
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Description 

This is a wide stretch of quality rock with maybe a dozen older trad and mixed routes and a couple newer sport lines. Perhaps the earliest and definitely most historic route here is Henry Barber's Dean's Day Off.


Getting There 

Best directions will be had in Tom Perkins' guidebook.

The vast majority of the crags are on the left (South) side of the road as you drive up the pass, while Lincoln Creek, a valley branching off to the Southeast from the main highway, offers good climbing as well.

Per D-Storm: park at the bridge for Lincoln Creek Road. Walk over the bridge, and walk upstream for a couple hundred yards until an obvious trail branches uphill to the right. The trail forks a couple times after reaching a boulderfield stay right, going uphill. You'll hike under the Sunset Cliff which has a prominent, black streak with a bolted 5.10 called "I'll be Black" and head back downhill (steep!). The trail levels out and takes you to the base of Lincoln Creek Cliff.

Per BJ Sbarra: There's actually also a shortcut that goes straight across the hill side from the boulderfield, so you don't have to climb up to and then down from Sunset. Right before you start climbing up the hill out of the boulders, look for cairns leading right. It's a bit rough in spots but pretty easy to follow.


9 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lincoln Creek Cliff:
Haywire   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Cardo's Corner   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Cramper   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Peruvian Flake   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Honest Abe   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Dean's Day Off   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 115'   
Browse More Classics in Lincoln Creek Cliff

Featured Route For Lincoln Creek Cliff
Gabe working on the last hard move before the anchor.

Honest Abe 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a  CO : Independence Pass : ... : Lincoln Creek Cliff
This is a great route with plenty of good pro and sustained challenging climbing throughout. Start by mantling up onto a ledge (move protected by a bolt). Climb a steep strenuous crack with good pro and mantel again onto another sloping ledge. Good wires protect the last crux dihedral and a final bolt protects the exit moves to the anchor. The guidebook gives this route 12a but I didn't feel it was that difficult. A consensus grade should narrow it down, but I felt it was somewhere around 1...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on Lincoln Creek Cliff Add Comment
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By D-Storm
Sep 15, 2010

To write "see guidebook for directions" defeats a major purpose of this site I don't have a guidebook and am looking for the info here! Thanks for nothing. I still don't know how to get to this cliff. I bring this up so people will be better about it in future posts.

By D-Storm
Jun 24, 2013

Finally found my way over to this cliff. Park at the bridge for Lincoln Creek Road. Walk over the bridge, and walk upstream for a couple hundred yards until an obvious trail branches uphill to the right. The trail forks a couple times after reaching a boulderfield stay right, going uphill. You'll hike under the Sunset Cliff which has a prominent, black streak with a bolted 5.10 called "I'll be Black" and head back downhill (steep!). The trail levels out and takes you to the base of Lincoln Creek Cliff.

By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Jun 25, 2013

There's actually also a shortcut that goes straight across the hill side from the boulderfield, so you don't have to climb up to and then down from Sunset. Right before you start climbing up the hill out of the boulders, look for cairns leading right. It's a bit rough in spots but pretty easy to follow.