|By Greg Kuchyt|
Jul 20, 2014
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
This route unenjoyably and unnecessarily goes to the top of the cliff. You can't see from below but there is a fixed anchor at the top of the cliff set back a few meters. The climbing on the arete is very enjoyable but is very short-lived. The rest of the route is effectively a long hike for a short slide and is of a much less enjoyable nature compared to the majority of other routes at the cliff.
This route is tagged on the first bolt that warns the route is 5.11a R with ledge-fall potential.
I think it does North East R-rated climbs a dis-justice to consider this route R. Yes, there is a ledge fall potential but a good, attentive belayer should be able to keep you off the ledge if you peel getting to the stance to clip the next bolt. If you don't feel confident you can climb this route, you probably shouldn't get on it. If you feel confident at the grade, have a head you can trust to stay calm, and trust your belayer don't let the R-rating scare you off.