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Limp Wristed Faggot 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Roy McClenahan, 1984
Page Views: 500
Submitted By: Murf on Jan 1, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Overview of the Limp Wristed Faggot wall.

Description 

On the upper right side of the formation is a overhanging finger crack to a ledge 3/4 up the formation. Note that there is an unfinished two bolt line to the left which is indicated as this route in the '92 Vogel guide.

Jam up to a ledge below a short left facing corner. There seems to be two possibilites to start, the left of which is the most straight forward. From the top of the corner jam left on the imposing finger crack. Past the crux the finger crack eases into more of a layback. The overhanging nature of the route makes it unforgiving of mistakes or a willingness to try and overprotect.

The descent is via a scrappy chimney up and then around the back of the formation.


Protection 

1 #2 Camalot or similar, plus a good selection of small cams red Alien and smaller, hand sized for the anchor.



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