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Main Elk Crag
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Limp Lizard 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Josh Wharton
Page Views: 380
Submitted By: Alvaro Arnal on Oct 20, 2013

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Limp Lizard (5.12a).

Description 

Once a scary run-out lead, this route has now been re-bolted (with permission from the FA) for your clipping pleasure! The rebolting effort has morphed this route into a great, fun, and challenging addition to Main Elk.

After getting through the loose choss band at the start (this is the only bad rock on the entire route and prevalent across all routes at Main Elk), climb fun, technical, golden limestone to the overhanging crux. Decipher the crux moves, and you are rewarded with a great jug rest below the final black slab headwall. Attention to your feet and a clear head will help you get through this headwall, which is littered with sharp rock, great sidepulls, and thin horizontal crimp rails that look like they came off your hangboard!

Location 

This route starts in the middle of the east-facing panel of the tall overhanging buttress on the far right side of Main Elk crag. It is 4 routes to the right of Velociraptor.

Protection 

You need a 70 meter rope to get down from this climb!

14 bolts; anchor with lowering biners. Long slings may be useful below the overhanging section to reduce rope drag above.


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By Lynn S
Nov 29, 2013

A 60m rope works but not by much.
By Alvaro Arnal
Administrator
From: Aspen, CO
Mar 5, 2014

Apparently there's a left kneebar in the middle of the crux that drops the difficulty by about a letter grade. Bring the pad, and this climb is 12-.