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h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
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Limelight T 
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Suppers Ready T 
Three Doves T 
Three Vultures T 
Traverse of the Clods T 
Unholy Wick T 
Updraft T 

Limelight 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Dick Williams, Art Gran, 1965
Page Views: 11,445
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Mar 1, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (211)
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Jeff Arliss on P1.

Description 

Limelight is another mega-classic on this great wall, along with Three Doves, Arrow, and Annie Oh!. Limelight is the easiest, so it may be the best choice for your first climb in this area.

The Limelight access trail is just past some white rocks on the left side of the carriage road, at an open area with a good view of the valley. This is about a 13-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 9-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.

At the cliff, spot the huge left-facing corner of Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) on the right. Limelight starts about 40' left of Easy V and 20' left of Arrow.

Scramble up 15' to a ledge below a groove. Directly above you'll see huge right-leaning flakes that are 50' up the wall.

P1: Climb up the groove and face to the huge flakes. Follow the flakes up and right to the GT Ledge. 5.6 and a bit PG, 80'.

P2: Climb up more or less right above the first pitch, to a ledge. Continue up easy rock aiming for a left-facing corner. Pass a small overhang and make a dicey step left into a thin, left-facing flake at the start of the corner. Climb up the corner and traverse left under a roof (crux). Continue up a crack to a ledge, and go left to a bolt anchor. 5.7, 100'.

Descent: Rap from the bolt anchor back to the GT ledge (stretches a 60m rope - watch the ends). Downclimb to a big tree with rap slings. Rap 100' to the ground with a 60m rope.


Protection 

Standard Rack. Small passive and active gear is useful on the second pitch.



Photos of Limelight Slideshow Add Photo
Dave Morgan on P2.
Dave Morgan on P2.
At the pin on the 2nd pitch.
BETA PHOTO: At the pin on the 2nd pitch.
1st pitch of Limelight
1st pitch of Limelight
Jean Aschenbrenner climbing the huge flakes near the top of the first pitch.
Jean Aschenbrenner climbing the huge flakes near t...
The first pitch of Limelight.
BETA PHOTO: The first pitch of Limelight.
limelight pitch 1
BETA PHOTO: limelight pitch 1
Damon Farnum near the top of the flakes.
Damon Farnum near the top of the flakes.
Limelight 2nd pitch
Limelight 2nd pitch
Lime Light 5.7 looking down second pitch
Lime Light 5.7 looking down second pitch
looking up the first pitch
looking up the first pitch
Comments on Limelight Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 14, 2013
By John Peterson
Mar 1, 2006

Good description. A few notes on descending:

The first rap goes right over Annie Oh!, and the second rap goes right over Three Doves - be careful about throwing a rope. It sucks to get hit by a rope as you pull either crux. The anchor over at Arrow is an alternative and that one doesn't interfere with climbers as much.

You can get down on a 50m rope just fine - you have to swing left at the bottom to get on easier rock but it's no big deal.

The area gets a lot of weekend traffic - when it's crowded I prefer to rap over by Hans' Puss since that's all air. Definitely need two ropes for that.

By GoBotRocker
From: Spfld, Ma
Jul 4, 2006

Great climb, That pin IS still there at the top of the vertical crack before the crux traverse.

By adrenalated
From: Thornton, CO
May 10, 2007

Also thought that the thin flake/groove leading up to the overhang was harder than the traverse itself, but that may just be my skill set.

Great route, I only wish the first pitch was as good as the second. It's not bad, just mediocre compared to P2. It's also worth noting that there is some runout climbing on P1, but not too horrible.

By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Sep 26, 2007
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Stellar route; second only to Arrow as my favorite lead this trip! The second pitch is fantastic, but I enjoyed it from top to bottom. NOTE: If you're using the Williams "Select" guide, don't get suckered into following the retarded beta of doing the short scramble up the boulders as a separate pitch.

By Spiro
Apr 10, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13

i tend to agree that the thin crack to the travese was more the crux for me. The traverse looked hard but wasnt that bad. good route

By slim
Administrator
Jun 8, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13

i would call this a somewhat serious route for the grade (2nd pitch). not the thickest flake, slippery crux moves, and your last piece below the flake is a ways (mine was at least, there is a good chance i wasn't paying attention and missed some). maybe not the best route to break into the grade, but a very good route none-the-less.

By J Antin
From: Denver, CO
Aug 10, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

A great route to bring Gunks first timers -

By JSH
Administrator
Jun 23, 2010

The beautiful white rock at the top of P2 really is a special feature.

By doligo
Oct 4, 2010

P2 has more quality moves than P2 of Arrow, IMO.

By Jaysen Henderson
From: White Plains, New York
Feb 28, 2012

i linked the 2 pitches and came up 20 feet short of the anchors! It's doable with a 70 and so much fun. Super cruiser climbing a great gunks moderate for sure. I ended up going straight up through the roof at the end instead of breaking left.

By superkick
From: West Hartford, CT
Sep 29, 2013

I would definitely agree the flake is harder than the traverse moves. I thought getting under the roof / traverse was pretty easy.

The flake isn't hard, just intimidating. I was able to get a bomber nut in it though, which makes it less heady considering your prior cam is below the start of that flake and there's only a pin once you're on it.

By brostin
Oct 14, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

super loose suitcase sized block just above the first overhang on pitch 2.