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 ADVANCED
Left Hand Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Feels Like Someone Else T,S 
Freelance Tramps (Variation) S 
Guanica S 
Limbomaniac T,S 
Party's Over, The T 
Pindering to the Masses S 
Resume Builder S 
Six Bats And A Ringtail Cat T 
Unemployment Line S 
Unknown (Right of The Party's Over) T,S 

Limbomaniac 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Eric Fazio-Rhicard, David Fang & Adrian Reen (1991)
Page Views: 2,244
Submitted By: Orphaned on Feb 20, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Description 

Climb left of crack then follow bolts up to the chains. Fun climb.


Location 

This is the third route from the left (south) on the left hand wall.


Protection 

Limbomaniac is a mixed route, meaning it is intended to be climbed with both traditional gear and quickdraws. While climbing it as a pure sport route is possible there could be serious consequences if the climber falls due to error or poor rock. Either way use caution.

6 or 7 bolts to chains. Belayer should wear helmet as rocks seem to like to fall here.



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By Kirk Barrett
Jan 23, 2008

Bring some gear unless you like run out on holds that will not last the decade, above great ankle breaker ledges. Tiny and finger-sized cams will do. Only 5, maybe 6 bolts. Easy 5.7, wear helmets belayers stand back.

By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 3, 2008

agree with kirk. might be good for a new leader who wants to place some gear but not stake their life on it.

By Derek Anderson
From: Tucson,AZ
Dec 16, 2009

I used cams and I climb 5.10 sport haha so ... it is what it is lil brother

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Dec 3, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

This is a MIXED route in the guidebook, without gear you're looking at a ground fall runout on easy 5.4 ground between the second and third bolt and a 25-30 foot runout from the last bolt to the chains with some 5.6/5.7 moves.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Dec 3, 2011

If anyone thinks it is worth it they are welcome to add some bolts.

By Myk
From: tucson, az
Dec 26, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Fun climb. Haven't been on it for years. Probably not a great climb for a 5.7 or 5.8 climber to jump on the sharp end. The first bolt off the ground to the left is on Pindering to the Masses. Saw a party today using it thinking that is where the climb started, but made the climb a bit harder. If you don't like the runout to the first bolt, you can clip that bolt then come down and do the regular start. Has mussy hooks at anchors.