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Crag of Fear 
Quickie Cliff 
Slamdance Buttress 

Lily Mountain 


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Elevation: 9,000'
Page Views: 12,752. Good page?   
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jul 6, 2011

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Thu Fri Sat Sun Mon
Chance of a Thunderstorm
63° | 43°
Partly Cloudy
72° | 45°
Partly Cloudy
72° | 45°
Partly Cloudy
72° | 43°
Clear
70° | 41°

Huecos.

Description 

This is a pleasant set of fairly short cliffs that lie on our National Forest land offering some pleasant moderates protected mostly with bolts. Some of the rock here is fairly atypical for the area with at least one section with interesting, wavy huecos on granite. The rock reminds you of some of the Ironclads in spots (on the upper cliff) and also some of the south and west faces in the Flatirons or even some of the less steep rock of Red River Gorge (on the middle cliff). The rock is still somewhat friable in spots even though these routes have been in for a few years, so be prepared. You can access some of the anchors from above, if you so desire. These are good crags for kids and families; however, the smallest of kids may not be able to climb the bolted lines.

Some of the developers of these crags include Rich Perch, Dan Hare, Tom Kohlman, Roland Fortin, Chris Reveley, Susan Day, Roger Truesdale, Byron Prinzmetal, Deb Thompson, Dave Rogers, and Jackie Paik. Thanks!

Thank you, Rich, for helping start to update this information!

Since it is just off a relatively popular low-end hiking trail up Lily Mt (2 miles, 1000' gain), you will get some non-climber questions like "how did you get the rope up there?" Still, for a change of pace, short approach, or after work relaxation, you may find this worth the effort.

On a foreward thinking note, the parking area for Lily Mountain's hiking trail is a crowded, roadside parking area. Please, please do your best to be reasonable with climber - non-climber interactions so as not to jeopardize our access to these crags. Also, it is to avoid conflicts with land usage, it's probably wisest to avoid bolting in plain sight of the trail.

If you have more information, please contact me and I can update this incomplete data. Thanks!


Getting There 

There are 2 approaches to these crags:

A. The most straightforward is to park at the Lily Mt. trailhead which lies on CO 7 just north of Lily Lake and south of Estes Park. The parking is roadside. The hike is largely flat for ~3/4 mile. Just after a S-shaped set of switchbacks and then a Z-shaped set of switchbacks, the uphill-most cliff appears just feet away from the trail.

B. The other approach involves following a trail (formerly bushwhacking) along a section that was cleared for fire mitigation. Park shortly after mile marker 5. There are 2 small pullouts. The first is on the east side of the road. The second (smaller) is on the west side. Hike up shortly west of the east parking pullout just past a yellow left curve sign. If you get to a rockcut, you've gone too far south. Hike up perhaps 300 vertical feet to the crags. You will see My Grain Headache as you get closer.

This is the uphill-most crag, and it lies just downhill from the trail.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lily Mountain:
Manly Bulge   5.6     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Quickie Cliff
Nooner or Later    5.7     Sport, 1 pitch, 25 feet   Quickie Cliff
Luck of the Draw    5.8     Sport, 1 pitch, 25 feet   Quickie Cliff
A Coarse Line   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 35 feet   Slamdance Buttress
The Buckets Stop Here   5.10-     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Crag of Fear
Show Me The Monkey   5.10     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Slamdance Buttress
Burnin' Rubber   5.10     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Crag of Fear
Browse More Classics in Lily Mountain

Featured Route For Lily Mountain
An atrophied husband solving the crux.

Atrophied Husband 5.10  CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Quickie Cliff
This is a nice line that has some sustained, interesting climbing after a currently crumbly start.Pull up onto the face. Pay attention at the start, since the lower band of this cliff is not too consolidated. The crux comes low as you pull onto the featured, more solid face above. There are two ways to solve this crux, left or right. Continue up on interesting knobs. The last 20 feet are on low angle terrain. The anchors are shared with Manly Bulge. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Photos of Lily Mountain Slideshow Add Photo
Kira, 5' 2 1/2" and fighting for the holds.

Kira, 5' 2 1/2" and fighting for the holds.

Right off the trail.

Right off the trail.

Overview photo courtesy of Rich Perch.

BETA PHOTO: Overview photo courtesy of Rich Perch.