Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Lilly Bluff

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alien S 
Aneurism S 
Blade Loafer T,S 
Body Hammer S 
Borderline S 
Clyde the Mega Dude S 
Dinosaur Jr. S 
Dirty Deeds S 
Done Dirt Cheep S 
Egyptian S 
Electric Chair S 
Electric Sky S 
Gangsta S 
Heresy S 
Ivy League S 
La Familia S 
Lounge Lizard S 
Mixed Nuts T,S 
Motion Sickness S 
NC Sport Climber T 
Osiris S 
Paraphernalia S 
Piggy T 
Poison Ivy S 
Rocking Chair T,S 
Tarantella S 
Ticks Are For Kids S 
Unga Bunga T 
Wheatward Bound S 
Whipper Snapper S 
Yakuza S 
Unsorted Routes:

Lilly Bluff 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 36.1022, -84.7184 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 16,354
Administrators: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Chris Carver on Nov 19, 2007
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The biggest jugs you will never fall off of.

Description 

This a smaller (Obed Standards), shady crag. However, there is a fine collection of routes, and the walk is no more than 5 minutes. Because of the shade, this is one of the more popular places to climb during the summer.


Getting There 

Drive across the Lilly Bridge and park in a small gravel parking lot. Look for an obvious trail that heads into the woods near the bridge. Follow this trail, which intersects the cliff line at a tall, prominent wall. Head right for Lilly Bluff.


Climbing Season


31 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',12],['5.11',10],['5.12',7],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lilly Bluff:
Rocking Chair   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Tarantella   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Ticks Are For Kids   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Blade Loafer   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Ivy League   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Paraphernalia   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Dinosaur Jr.   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Alien   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 70'   
Electric Chair   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Whipper Snapper   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Lounge Lizard   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Heresy   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport   
Poison Ivy   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Clyde the Mega Dude   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Osiris   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 60'   
Egyptian   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 70'   
Gangsta   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   
Yakuza   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 50'   
Wheatward Bound   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport   
La Familia   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Classics in Lilly Bluff

Featured Route For Lilly Bluff
Climber headed for rest stop #2 on Tarantella (5.10a).

Tarantella 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  TN : Obed & Clear Creek : Lilly Bluff
Climb the left face of the corner (sometimes wet) and clip the first bolt while hanging from a ledge. Clamber up onto the ledge for a nice rest, and clip the second bolt. Now reach down and unclip the first bolt to avoid rope drag later down the road. Wander up the right face of the corner, past another lovely rest ledge on the arete, to anchors near the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in TN

Local Information for Lilly Bluff
News
- none -
Upcoming Events
Sep 6Obed Adopt a Crag
Comments on Lilly Bluff Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeff Thilking
From: Lynchburg, VA
Feb 4, 2013
CONDITION REPORT 

Very Icy muddy quagmire today. Was only able to boulder up to second bolt of rocking chair before rock got too wet. Recommend a helmet when checking out routes, monster chunk of ice sheared off and landed beside me today, would have crushed my gourd.