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This a smaller (Obed Standards), shady crag. However, there is a fine collection of routes, and the walk is no more than 5 minutes. Because of the shade, this is one of the more popular places to climb during the summer.
Drive across the Lilly Bridge and park in a small gravel parking lot. Look for an obvious trail that heads into the woods near the bridge. Follow this trail, which intersects the cliff line at a tall, prominent wall. Head right for Lilly Bluff.
31 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lilly Bluff:
Rocking Chair 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Ticks Are For Kids 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Tarantella 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Blade Loafer 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Ivy League 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Paraphernalia 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Dinosaur Jr. 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Alien 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Sport, 70'
Electric Chair 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch
Whipper Snapper 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Poison Ivy 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Lounge Lizard 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Heresy 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport
Clyde the Mega Dude 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Egyptian 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Sport, 70'
Electric Sky 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Gangsta 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Wheatward Bound 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b Sport
Featured Route For Lilly Bluff
Tarantella 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a TN : Obed & Clear Creek : Lilly Bluff
Climb the left face of the corner (sometimes wet) and clip the first bolt while hanging from a ledge. Clamber up onto the ledge for a nice rest, and clip the second bolt. Now reach down and unclip the first bolt to avoid rope drag later down the road. Wander up the right face of the corner, past another lovely rest ledge on the arete, to anchors near the top....[more] Browse More Classics in TN
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