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Lilly Bluff Route Question

Original Post
Austin Eddy · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 11

Hey so I just have a quick question regarding the route Tarantella in Lilly Bluff at the Obed. On Mountain Project, the route that everybody is doing and calling Tarantella is shown as Alien in the guidebook. Is this a mistake in the book? If it is a mistake, what is the route that the book is calling Tarantella?

Thanks a lot!

Kyle McPheeters · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 1

I dont have my book in front of me so cant say for certain, but I seem to remember noticing that the two were just switched. The one on the right that is really tall and reasonably easy is 10a, tarantella. The one to the left of the corner is alien, called 10d though I think its harder since some stuff broke on it. Maybe low/mid 11. Not sure the whole history, maybe the names were reversed in the old book and they swapped them on purpose in the new one, but more than likely its just a typo ;)

Austin Eddy · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 11
Kyle McPheeters wrote:I dont have my book in front of me so cant say for certain, but I seem to remember noticing that the two were just switched. The one on the right that is really tall and reasonably easy is 10a, tarantella. The one to the left of the corner is alien, called 10d though I think its harder since some stuff broke on it. Maybe low/mid 11. Not sure the whole history, maybe the names were reversed in the old book and they swapped them on purpose in the new one, but more than likely its just a typo ;)
Do you mind checking your book to give a more clear answer? I've looked at this for way too long and still have no idea whats right.
Kyle McPheeters · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 1

ha, ok, I will look at it when I get home. The grades are correct, the tall one on the right is absolutely 10a and the left one is absolutely graded 10d, but its harder and holds broke. I'll check the names.

Chuck Parks · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 2,190

I assume you are referring to the the Kelly Brown guidebook, The Obed: A Climber's Guide to the Wild and Scenic.

In that book, all of the written route descriptions are correct. And the large photo spanning pp. 98-99 is indeed a photo of a climber on Tarantella. However, the small photo in the lower left corner of p. 98 has the routes misnumbered. Instead of routes 3, 4 & 5, the photo shows routes 4, 5 & 6.

Hope that helps clear things up!

Austin Eddy · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 11
Chuck Parks wrote:I assume you are referring to the the Kelly Brown guidebook, The Obed: A Climber's Guide to the Wild and Scenic. In that book, all of the written route descriptions are correct. And the large photo spanning pp. 98-99 is indeed a photo of a climber on Tarantella. However, the small photo in the lower left corner of p. 98 has the routes misnumbered. Instead of routes 3, 4 & 5, the photo shows routes 4, 5 & 6. Hope that helps clear things up!
Okay thanks! I think that clears it up! Just to clarify then, the route in the middle of the small picture on page 98 that is currently labeled 4 is tarantella and should be labeled 5?

You are excellent. Thanks a lot.
Kyle McPheeters · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 1

Doh! Sorry for never looking at this for you. Chuck nailed it and what you said is correct.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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