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The Bastille - N Face
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Lilliburlero 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: S Breashears, 1976
Season: Faces North
Page Views: 238
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 1, 2011
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a short climb with a short crux and is most often top-roped when anyone pays it any attention at all. Start climbing just left of the rising brown band of the 5.9 start of P1 of March Of Dimes and continue up into a thin (tips) crack and a hard crux, joining M.O.D. at the easy right-facing crack 1/2 way up.


Location 

This variation of the first pitch of March Of Dimes starts just down-canyon (left) of the traditional set of starts.


Protection 

It's not a total lack of gear that makes this route so hard to protect as it is the lack of stances from which to fuss anything in with confidence. A few small nuts are possible.



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