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 ADVANCED
Glen Comfort Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dark Holler T,S 
Lil' Sadie T 
Shady Grove TR 

Lil' Sadie 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Adam and Elizabeth Paashaus, Spring '09
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 239
Submitted By: Adam Paashaus on Jan 1, 2011

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Lil' Sadie.

Description 

Climb the obvious hand crack until the angle eases. At this point step left across the slab to another crack and follow it to the top and build a gear anchor.

Variation. The original route went straight up the same crack where it gets wide, all the way to the top. There is no good protection possible in that section but the climbing is not hard.

Location 

From the base of the other 2 routes, follow the cliff down and to the climber’s left around a corner. Lil Sadie is tucked up into another small corridor and faces south so it sees more sun through the day than the other routes. From the top of the route it is possible to traverse right across the slab to the top of “Shady Grove” to set up the TR anchor (Look for a large boulder next to a small tree).

Protection 

Light rack to a #3.


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