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Li'l Dog 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Kirk Miller
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,442
Submitted By: Kirk Miller on Mar 13, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (65)
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Pulling left around the arÍte is the first hard mo...

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Left of the existing routes at the Dog House, Li'l Dog climbs a pocketed slab to an overhanging prow.

Protection 

12-13 bolts to Fixe rings.


Photos of Li'l Dog Slideshow Add Photo
Steve Thomas in the crux.
Steve Thomas in the crux.
You start on the right, pull around left, and then...
You start on the right, pull around left, and then...
Steve starting up Li'l Dog.
Steve starting up Li'l Dog.
All of the holds are positive and most are big, bu...
All of the holds are positive and most are big, bu...
Below the steep crux.
Below the steep crux.

Comments on Li'l Dog Add Comment
Show which comments
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 12, 2005
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Very fun route on surprisingly great quality stone. Most is easy 5.7 climbing to a fun overhanging arete crux sequence. Good warm up for the warm-ups....
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 23, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Fun but pretty easy. This was my first climb of the day, and I was real solid. I had more trouble with Snoopy 9+ just to the left. That may say more about my strengths and weaknesses as a climber than about the relative grades.
By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Aug 30, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Exciting; much steeper crux than the pics here suggest. A bit over-bolted. And felt spicy for an 11a (my grade, not Kirk Miller's), but the action is short lived and overall, this route was at least a letter grade easier than Hot Dog (11b in the Mabe guidebook), a few lines to the right.

SPOILER BETA: Keep slappin' that left hand up and left and higher than those desperate chalk marks suggest, that big boy ladder rung is up there, somewhere. S'all over at that point....

By Ben Cassedy
From: Denver, CO
May 5, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This one makes for a pretty good warm up even if 11b is at or near your limit, if you know where the crux holds are. You do a ton of 5.8-ish climbing and have a stance before pulling the crux.

I guess the inconsistent difficulty is somewhat of a strike against the route, but that's about the only negative thing I could say about it. The easier sections are a lot of fun and the rock is overall very good. Fun, short, powerful crux with some good exposure.
By Fred Bonnard
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 21, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Surprised by the large consensus on grading this route 11b, I can think of many 11b's at Shelf, Rifle, Devil's Head much harder than this route. It is basically a one move wonder at the top, my 2 cents.... I did enjoy the climb though.
By Kirk Miller
From: Golden, CO
May 1, 2013

One of the most useful features of MP is the consensus grade. When routes go in, they tend to be graded according to the FA's feel for the route on that particular day. Often first impressions are accurate, but consensus weighs way more heavily towards establishing more accurate grades.

So... .10d, .11b... I'll go with whatever the crowds decide.
(Last time I got on it, it felt easier than 11b to me as well.)