This is a great climb. However, the gear down low is in rock of suspect quality. Be solid at the grade if attempting an onsight. Probably 2.5 stars due to this fact.
The route starts in a hand crack through Pegmatite. The PG-13 rating is for the starting section, because the crack is formed by some hollow sounding rock. There are some solid sidepulls to the right of the crack that help you from pulling too hard and make this section of climbing fairly easy. Be mindful of the rock quality when placing your gear. Just below the small roof above the end of the pegmatite, there is a funky large nut placement in a shallow trough that protects the move to the quality stone above.
From the good stance at the flake below the first bolt, there is a good small nut placement that protects the committing moves above. The holds on the face are hard to see, making this a difficult and intimidating climb to onsight.
This is just to the right of the Unknown 5.9 crack. See photo.
6 bolts and pro to 3 inches.
|By Dougald MacDonald|
Sep 16, 2012
Start this in the crack to the left (just right of Unknown 5.9) for more solid rock. Flows nicely into the first bolt. Superb climbing up the arÍte.