Like a Wonk 5.9
| 1,158 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 120 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9- [details] |
| FA: | Greg Hand, Kent Lugbill & Dan Brockway, 4/10/2007 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Greg Hand on Apr 17, 2007 |
| |
Left variation. Photo by Lenny Miller.
Add Photo  Printer View
Description Two new first-pitch variations added 4/18/2007.
Pitch 1a: Begin just left of Botonga, solo up easy rock and climb past 3 bolts (5.9) in a dihedral to a 2-bolt anchor.
Pitch 1b: Climb the line just left of pitch 1a following 3 bolts (5.9) to a new 2-bolt anchor with Mussy hooks. You may need to temporarily clip the anchor to the right to get to the upper anchor.
These two separate new anchors eliminate the rope shredding problem.
Pitch 2: Move right past the anchor for Botonga and wonk your way straight up placing the gear until the bolts are reached. The crux (5.8) is the short traverse right at the 2nd bolt.
Location Begins just left of Botonga.
Protection 0.75 Camalot, red, yellow, green Aliens.
2-bolt anchors atop each pitch.
By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
Oct 2, 2009
rating: 5.9+
| With belly to the bolts, the left hand variation felt fairly hard (.10c?) to me; I'm 5'8" and I hung, [but avoided the crack to the left]. I was expecting easier.... |
By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Jan 13, 2010
| I removed a loose flake (18 inch diameter) from the left variation today. It can be seen in the picture next to the climbers left foot. It left a big hold and the move at the 2nd bolt is easier now. I was actually shocked how hollow it sounded. The FA party was remiss in not cleaning it. OH WAIT! That's me! Sorry. I also put in separate anchors for the two variations. This eliminates the rope shredding problem. |
|
RSS Feed
1 more...
Slideshow