Like a Shadow in the Night

Shadow in the Night has now lived up to its name as the grade is still a toss, and it remains an elusive send for many. This striking, steep, all natural gear line stacks up both a down home trad climbing experience in the first half, which is then followed by thin, technical and often bouldery cruxes in the upper half when the crack clamps down. Whatever the grade, if you like a little mystery in your life and are climbing well, this hard to grasp line might suit you. Or maybe not?

It’s reported that this line may favor a more compact frame. However, both Joel and I are 6’2” and while it seemed hard, obviously not impossible. Though it has shut down a lot of talented climbers. At the time of the FA, it felt like a .13a effort was going to be involved for a lead, which is why I brought Joel in to get the job done. He failed on his onsight attempt, but then spent time working the line and I believe sent it on his next lead attempt. I followed this ascent and still felt like it was harder than anything else I was working on at the time. And the other lines have held thier grades. Let us know how it goes.

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Rappel straight down the Nyctophiliac gully to a pillar top belay. #.3- #.5 are handy. Nyctophiliac starts off the climber's left side of the pillar, while Like a shadow in the Night starts off on the right side of the pillar.

Work your way past 5.9 hand cracks to chimney roof at 35'. As you work out the little roof, the climbing and the gear get more thoughtful. You will work past some welded blocks and 5.10- climbing to a good shake at a conspicuous white jug on the left, just before the steep upper half of the route.

From this point, 5.11- climbing will lead you into the first of several black bouldery cruxes with good gear. If you can crank through the darkness, you will be rewarded with a fantastic shake and awesome 5.8 climbing to the top. Exit into the Nycto Gully.