Lights in the Forest  5.11b

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 6 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III Consensus:  5.11b [details] FA:  FFA Surette/Cannon '84, FA- Webster/Ross '76 Submitted By:  stredna on Sep 7, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Paul Ross on the first ascent P3.photo Ed Webster

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Description 

Memorable. 6 great pitches! Pro on the last pitch is R, but should not be an issue if you're climbing 11.

P1-Start at a bolt ladder to the right of Highway 61 (where the old tree climb began) and climb corner to ledge system above. 5.8 - 80'

P2- Undercling right under the overlap to ledge. 10b - 40'

P3- Move up and left via crack into a corner (bolt). Straight up into the chimney feature and then to another great belay ledge! 5.9 - 140'

P4- Up and at 'em! Up the 5.8 handcrack then traverse right under overlap to right edge and bust a move up (assume harder if you have a smaller ape-index) to a bolt above and a friction move to the belay. 11b - 90'

P5-6 May be combined. Move out right from belay to a bolt and to a devious 5.9 move, trend up and left to another bolt (crux) and climb a finicky friction move to easier climbing and the belay bolts. 5.11b - 50'

P6- Climb out right a bit and up, trending left a bit through some lichen, to the trees! 1 bolt protects the pitch. 5.9 - 60' An alternative at the start of p6 may be to traverse right to escape into an obvious feature.

Location 

Look for bolt ladder right of Highway 61. You can see the former tree-climb laying on the ground adjacent to the start.

Protection 

normal rack up to 3".