Lights in the Forest
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.5 from 19 votes
Type: | Trad, Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | FFA Surette/Cannon '84, FA- Webster/Ross '76 |
Page Views: | 6,421 total · 39/month |
Shared By: | stredna on Sep 7, 2010 |
Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
Memorable. 6 great pitches! Pro on the last pitch is R, but should not be an issue if you're climbing 11.
P1-Start at a bolt ladder to the right of Highway 61 (where the old tree climb began) and climb corner to ledge system above. 5.8 - 80'
P2- Undercling right under the overlap to ledge. 10b - 40'
P3- Move up and left via crack into a corner (bolt). Straight up into the chimney feature and then to another great belay ledge! 5.9 - 140'
P4- Up and at 'em! Up the 5.8 handcrack then traverse right under overlap to right edge and bust a move up (assume harder if you have a smaller ape-index) to a bolt above and a friction move to the belay. 11b - 90'
P5-6 May be combined. Move out right from belay to a bolt and to a devious 5.9 move, trend up and left to another bolt (crux) and climb a finicky friction move to easier climbing and the belay bolts. 5.11b - 50'
P6- Climb out right a bit and up, then trend right a bit through some lichen, to the trees! 1 bolt protects the pitch. 5.9 - 60' An alternative at the start of p6 may be to traverse right to escape into an obvious feature. From Tyler Rohr: Some beta on pitch 6: After the lone bolt it was pretty unclear to me where to go. I found a piton up and right in small feature (maybe 10-15 ft)...I ended up moving right maybe 20 feet from the piton through dirty ground and then the rest of the way up (30 or so feet?). A lot of the climbing involved scrapping off lichen before committing to a foot, but eventually, far right, things cleaned up.
P1-Start at a bolt ladder to the right of Highway 61 (where the old tree climb began) and climb corner to ledge system above. 5.8 - 80'
P2- Undercling right under the overlap to ledge. 10b - 40'
P3- Move up and left via crack into a corner (bolt). Straight up into the chimney feature and then to another great belay ledge! 5.9 - 140'
P4- Up and at 'em! Up the 5.8 handcrack then traverse right under overlap to right edge and bust a move up (assume harder if you have a smaller ape-index) to a bolt above and a friction move to the belay. 11b - 90'
P5-6 May be combined. Move out right from belay to a bolt and to a devious 5.9 move, trend up and left to another bolt (crux) and climb a finicky friction move to easier climbing and the belay bolts. 5.11b - 50'
P6- Climb out right a bit and up, then trend right a bit through some lichen, to the trees! 1 bolt protects the pitch. 5.9 - 60' An alternative at the start of p6 may be to traverse right to escape into an obvious feature. From Tyler Rohr: Some beta on pitch 6: After the lone bolt it was pretty unclear to me where to go. I found a piton up and right in small feature (maybe 10-15 ft)...I ended up moving right maybe 20 feet from the piton through dirty ground and then the rest of the way up (30 or so feet?). A lot of the climbing involved scrapping off lichen before committing to a foot, but eventually, far right, things cleaned up.
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