Lightning  5.13d

457 page views Good page?

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.13d [details] FA:  Chen Xie Wei (Aug. 2007) Submitted By:  Fred Gomez on Feb 15, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Climber on Single Life (13b)

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

'Lightning' seems to be the best entry level hard route in Yangshuo. Its best to tick this beauty off before embarking on some of the more serious projects at White Mountain. Originally Yangshuo's first 14a, the route has since been downrated to an honest 13d.

The first half of the climb is a route known as Single life (13b), which is a worthy venture in its own right. Getting to the first set of anchors features bold moves between crimps and tufa pinches. A knee bar or two in this lower section will help you to depump for the redpoint crux of 'Lightning.'

The climb greatly changes character after the first set of anchors. Two bolts of slightly less steep, technical climbing lead you to the redpoint crux. Crimp hard through the crux and then sail through some novelty tufa climbing to the anchors.

Location 

This is the centerpiece route of Lei Pi Shan. Look for a rocky pedestal at the base of the route and a dark hueco at the 6th bolt.

Protection 

Lots of bolts (around 22?), some of which you will probably want to skip. A long sling on the bolt above the dark hueco is a good idea.

Photos of Lightning Slideshow

Add Photo

Climber on Lightning (13d)