Lightning Rock only holds two routes listed in the current Lumpy Ridge guidebook, but it is an impressive cliff nonetheless. The cliff is named for the obvious lightning-shaped white dike that streaks down the center of the cliff. This dike is the line of Meltdown, a bold, old-school affair that face climbs directly up the lightning streak past just three quarter-inch bolts. Lightning Rock is a steep cliff, fairly devoid of features, which probably accounts for its limited number of routes. Also, the rock on the east- and west-facing corners is a bit crumbly, especially up high. The best route on Lightning Rock is Short Circuit, which despite being just two or three pitches, is well worth the short (for Lumpy standards) approach.
Lightning Rock sits just west of Batman Pinnacle, home of the classic 5.6 Batman and Robin. Approach as for Batman Pinnacle (staying close to the cliff below Checkerboard Rock will help you access a trail through the talus slope below Batman Pinnacle), and once below the route Batman and Robin, head straight west next to the cliff for approximately 75 feet to reach the base of Lightning Rock.
Browse More Classics in Lightning Rock
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lightning Rock:
Short Circuit 5.9 R Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
Ground Fall Interceptor (GFI) 5.11a Trad, 2 pitches, 260 feet
Off The Grid 5.11 Trad, 3 pitches, 350 feet
Featured Route For Lightning Rock
Ground Fall Interceptor (GFI) 5.11a CO : Lumpy Ridge : Lightning Rock
Start 15 feet right of Short Circuit/Meltdown. Climb up to the left edge of the low ceiling band, undercling and lieback around the roof and stretch up for a fingerlock (tricky protection). Face climb up and right on perfect stone, 5.9+, and then up and left on easier climbing to the large ledge 60 feet up. Belay at the tree.Move right on the ledge to a thin crack 10 feet right of the Meltdown finger crack. Climb the finger crack to its end, then sketch past 3 bolts of fantastic...[more] Browse More Classics in CO