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Routes in Main Cliff
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50 Years of Solitude T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Antelope Boy T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Blockhead T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Captain Obvious T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Capulin Classic T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Circumlocution T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Crap T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dark Crystal T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Easy, Vicar! T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Endgame T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Fergus T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Fifty Shades of Grey T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Fists of Fury T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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FPR T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Frisky Widow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Garden Party T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gauntlet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Hallucinogen Roof T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Hellbender T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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History Lesson T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Holloween T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hollowlean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Killa Beez T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Less Than Zero T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Lightning Road T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Little Teapot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Loctite T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Monkey Business T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Monkey Spank T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Monster T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Nuclear Winter T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Orb Weaver T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Perk Up T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Perk-ocet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Perkolater T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Physical T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Pinch Point T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pinky Mice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pintrest T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ponderosa T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pretty Fly for a White Guy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Red Bull and Copenhagen T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Restless T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Rue Morgue Avenue T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Rufie T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Silver City T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Simian Sunshine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Slotterhouse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Squoze T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Stairway to Heaven T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sticky Fingers T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Taqueria T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tree Hugger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unfinished T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unnamed T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unnamed 2 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unnamed 3 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Urban Fantasy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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White Corner T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Whole Lota Rosie T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Widdershins T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Widowmaker T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Witchcraft and Widgetry T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 220 ft (67 m) |
| FA: | Josh Smith |
| Page Views: | 900 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Smith on Nov 24, 2015 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
Lightning Road follows the obvious splitter on the right hand face of the Hellbender dihedral. The crack appears to terminate partway up the west face of the dihedral, but in fact it keeps going to a ledge. Important! The route is 215 feet to the ground. If you have a 60M rope, scramble to the large ledge up about 15 feet and belay from there (4th class).
From the ledge, you can climb the left Hellbender start (10+ fingers) or the right start, which is a 5.7 handcrack. Both go to the base of the lightning bolt crack. Follow the crack through a small roof and past a pin to where it terminates on a ledge. This section is the crux and involves steep fingers, then some delicate arete pinching/climbing while placing gear and clipping the pin on the left. Step right, clip another pin, then climb up past another pin and a small roof to a thin hands crack to the top of the cliff. This route is every bit as good as Hellbender but a number grade hard at least (may feel a tad harder than 12- and a bit more adventuresome than some of the other 12s at Capulin).
From the ledge, you can climb the left Hellbender start (10+ fingers) or the right start, which is a 5.7 handcrack. Both go to the base of the lightning bolt crack. Follow the crack through a small roof and past a pin to where it terminates on a ledge. This section is the crux and involves steep fingers, then some delicate arete pinching/climbing while placing gear and clipping the pin on the left. Step right, clip another pin, then climb up past another pin and a small roof to a thin hands crack to the top of the cliff. This route is every bit as good as Hellbender but a number grade hard at least (may feel a tad harder than 12- and a bit more adventuresome than some of the other 12s at Capulin).
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