Lightning Couloir I AI1 X, 260M AI1 Mod. Snow
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| Type: | Ice, Snow, 850 feet |
| Consensus: | AI1-2 [details] |
| FA: | Dacey 07 |
| Season: | Winter |
| Submitted By: | Johnny K. on Jan 3, 2011 |
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Lightning Couloir
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Description The X rating comes from rocks/tree rime/icicles getting hurled down the couloir like Thors axe .One day the conditions may make it a G climb,the next day it can be an X climb,something like alpine death dodge ball.Please take extreme caution always.
There is a mixed band of terrain between the two avenues of approach. The left of the two couloirs (just to the left of Lightning Couloir) is a bit safer to descend than Lightning, and it broadens out sooner, opening up to Big Butch Wash.
(Credit:Dacey)
Please do not litter.
Location Head up to Mt.Baldy village towards Manker flats where the road splits.Big butch wash off is to the right.Park in the Manker Flats area.Hike up to Big Butch towards the couloirs.When you come to the junction with the small waterfall on the left side, simply head up the obvious couloir system to the right in front of you.
Protection -HELMET
-Mountaineering axe Or ice tools (optional)
-Crampons
-Snow/ski/sun glasses
-Skis/snowboard for a quick descent
Credit: Ryan Dacey
Lightning couloir
Safety danc...
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Credit: Ryan Dacey
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Baldy bowl shinning in the backround
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Lightning Couloir Top out
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Safety Dance redirect
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Base of the route, Where Big Butch Wash meets a lo...
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Start of the route and the small ice falls that ma...
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About 1/3 of the way up the couloir.
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Looking down from a nice ledge about 1/2 way up.
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The small ice fall about 100' up the couloir.
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It got kinda rocky near the top
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more rock, less snow
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From just above the small ice fall, pretty low on ...
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The view from the top: Mt San Antonio and the Bald...
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| Comments on Lightning Couloir I AI1 X, 260M |
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By Dave Alden
From: San Diego, CA
Feb 25, 2013
rating: AI2 Mod. Snow X
CONDITION REPORT | Found a lot of extremely loose rock on the Mixed Steps variation. |
By Tyler Wick
From: Campbell, CA
Mar 12, 2011
rating: AI1 Mod. Snow X
| The place is a bowling alley in march! There were some decent sections of neve and some ice down low, but mostly easy snow. The crux was dodging rocks. |
By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 10, 2012
| Added a new area for The Three T's, could the owner or an admin move this route there? Thanks. |
By Dave Alden
From: San Diego, CA
Jan 14, 2013
rating: AI2 Mod. Snow X
| Low snowpack at the top of the route made for a very interesting solo. Lots of exposed ground/rock forced me to frontpoint and even drytool when I was able to find features stable enough to pull on. The lower 3/4 of the route was extremely fun though, good snow until the final 50ft or so. Going to wait for a bit more snow before I attempt to repeat the route. Definitely an "X" safety rating in these conditions, it did look like there were possibilities to protect however in the rock on the sides of the couloir. No rockfall luckily. |
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