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Mount San Antonio/ Mt. Baldy
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baldy Ski Hut 
Commando Couloir III AI2, 800M 
Creavature police 
Devil's Backbone 
Lightning Couloir I AI1 X, 260M 
Northeast Face 
Phoenix Wings 
Safety Dance 
San Antonio Falls T 
Ski Hut Boulder Left T 
South Bowl T 
Taco Sauce T 
Upper South Ridge 
Unsorted Routes:

Lightning Couloir I AI1 X, 260M 

AI1 Mod. Snow

   
Type:  Ice, Snow, 850'
Consensus: AI1 [details]
FA: Dacey 07
Season: Winter
Page Views: 1,470
Submitted By: Johnny K. on Jan 3, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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The view from the top: Mt San Antonio and the Bald...

Description 

The X rating comes from rocks/tree rime/icicles getting hurled down the couloir like Thors axe .One day the conditions may make it a G climb,the next day it can be an X climb,something like alpine death dodge ball.Please take extreme caution always.

There is a mixed band of terrain between the two avenues of approach. The left of the two couloirs (just to the left of Lightning Couloir) is a bit safer to descend than Lightning, and it broadens out sooner, opening up to Big Butch Wash.

(Credit:Dacey)

Please do not litter.


Location 

Head up to Mt.Baldy village towards Manker flats where the road splits.Big butch wash off is to the right.Park in the Manker Flats area.Hike up to Big Butch towards the couloirs.When you come to the junction with the small waterfall on the left side, simply head up the obvious couloir system to the right in front of you.


Protection 

-HELMET
-Mountaineering axe Or ice tools (optional)
-Crampons
-Snow/ski/sun glasses
-Skis/snowboard for a quick descent



Photos of Lightning Couloir I AI1 X, 260M Slideshow Add Photo
The small ice fall about 100' up the couloir.
The small ice fall about 100' up the couloir.
Lightning Couloir <br />Photo By Ryan Dacey
BETA PHOTO: Lightning Couloir
Photo By Ryan Dacey
About 1/3 of the way up the couloir.
About 1/3 of the way up the couloir.
Lightning Couloir <br />Photo By Ryan Dacey
Lightning Couloir
Photo By Ryan Dacey
more rock, less snow
more rock, less snow
Baldy bowl shinning in the backround
Baldy bowl shinning in the backround
Lightning Couloir
Lightning Couloir
Lightning Couloir Top out
Lightning Couloir Top out
Looking down from a nice ledge about 1/2 way up.
Looking down from a nice ledge about 1/2 way up.
Safety Dance redirect
Safety Dance redirect
It got kinda rocky near the top
It got kinda rocky near the top
Base of the route, Where Big Butch Wash meets a low angle frozen waterfall.
Base of the route, Where Big Butch Wash meets a lo...
From just above the small ice fall, pretty low on the couloir still.
From just above the small ice fall, pretty low on ...
Start of the route and the small ice falls that make it unmistakable.
Start of the route and the small ice falls that ma...
Result of rockfall. Left a cool scar.
Result of rockfall. Left a cool scar.
Comments on Lightning Couloir I AI1 X, 260M Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tyler Wick
From: Bishop, CA
Mar 12, 2011
rating: AI1 Mod. Snow X

The place is a bowling alley in march! There were some decent sections of neve and some ice down low, but mostly easy snow. The crux was dodging rocks.

By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 10, 2012

Added a new area for The Three T's, could the owner or an admin move this route there? Thanks.

By Dave Alden
From: San Diego, CA
Jan 14, 2013
rating: AI2 Mod. Snow X

Low snowpack at the top of the route made for a very interesting solo. Lots of exposed ground/rock forced me to frontpoint and even drytool when I was able to find features stable enough to pull on. The lower 3/4 of the route was extremely fun though, good snow until the final 50ft or so. Going to wait for a bit more snow before I attempt to repeat the route. Definitely an "X" safety rating in these conditions, it did look like there were possibilities to protect however in the rock on the sides of the couloir. No rockfall luckily.