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Black Wall
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Lightning Bolt Roof 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Jim Orey, 1977
Page Views: 990
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jul 9, 2005

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Description 

This route is on the WAY Right side of the black wall, and is a nearly horizontal roof that heads our for about 25 feet.

To access the route, Get over to the right side of the Black Wall, which is easy if you find the tiny hidden path, or really annoying if you don't. Finding the path along the base of the wall is easy, finding the path from the turnout is NOT.

Once you've found the right side of the wall, head up towards the overhang of Lightning Bolt Roof, which you can't miss. This is best accomplished by climbing the ramp to the right (5.6), which accesses the long crack known as Balck September (5.9+) and the sport route Summer Breeze (5.10c), or by walking up the broken 4th class crack from the left.

Lightning Bolt Roof is off-hand offwidth and less then ideal slopers for 20 feet, and then climbing eases at the second horn into a very fun but bizarre chimney.


Protection 

Medium to Large Gear, with an emphasis on gear from 3 - 5".



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By 426
Mar 6, 2007

Glad to see this thing uprated. Seemed very hard for the 11a rating in the old white guide.

  • **Spoiler alert*** do not read if you are an onsight purist.

Less offwidth, more of a fist crux. Secret hold inside allow tall guys to escape to the left quickly. Keep it together for the pumper finish. Yes, there's a no hands in there if you are savvy enough and don't clog the bad boy with gear...

Chain anchors as of a few years ago...you still have to turn the lip.

4 Camalots are best. We didn't use anything like a #5 on the crux, but you might throw it in up high(?)