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Lightning Bolt Cracks route beta
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By Mr. Stevens
From Boulder, CO
Oct 9, 2012

How is the final squeeze chimney? The Bloom book calls it 5.9+ and quite run-out. Does it warrant a PG-13 or R rating? I'm a pretty small guy: 5'7" ~145 lbs. Am I going to be pretty secure in the thing?


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By Highlander
From Ouray, CO
Oct 9, 2012

pretty secure, its a squeeze chimney, so you are wedged in, unlikely that you are going to fall out, may slid down a bit, but it is pretty casual, although it is a little or a lot on the sandy side. Don't remember placing any gear.


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By Steve Bond
Oct 9, 2012
Photo.

I am 5'9", 160 lbs and the squeeze is not bad. Of two trips up this, one time it was a bit awkward, the next not bad at all. If I recall, not burying yourself as deep as possible yields easier movement. Gear-wise you do run out a bit so exiting to the top is a bit exciting, but more "Wow" than fear factor.


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By Evan Belknap
From Placitas, NM
Oct 9, 2012
Cochise Stronghold—me on the left

You'll be fine. Go deep in there, and it's even more secure. Funny little pods. Vertical caving. I'm 140, 5' 9", and was all about it the couple times I've done that gorgeous route.


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By Bob Dobalina
Oct 9, 2012

After pulling the P3 overhang, the final chimney move feels secure and soft.


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By ben jammin
From Moab, UT
Oct 9, 2012
Aesthetics

Hopefully you won't have to 5 to 1 your screaming girlfriend through it.......


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By slim
Administrator
Oct 9, 2012
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

i don't think it is the squeeze, but rather getting into the squeeze that is the scary part....


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By MFL
From Sandy, UT
Oct 9, 2012

plenty of gear in that chimney. If you make it to that pitch, it will feel like 4th class compared the the funkness atop pitch one, and the wide hands overhang atop pitch 2.


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By Mr. Stevens
From Boulder, CO
Oct 9, 2012

Great, thanks for the info! Definitely looking forward to getting on the route sans screaming girlfriend...


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By MFL
From Sandy, UT
Oct 10, 2012

bsteve2 wrote:
Great, thanks for the info! Definitely looking forward to getting on the route sans screaming girlfriend...


classic!


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By Courtney Pace
Oct 11, 2012

The squeeze is sooo easy. I second Bob's comment that after the roof pull on the previous pitch you will be happy to get away from the exposure. There is gear at the start, middle and end. Its only like 30 feet anyways.


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By skiclimber
Oct 11, 2012
jibbing at chasm lake

Lightning bolts beta, Follow the crack! But don't follow the big one that's straight up above you when you start the route and look up top!


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By Skyler Penrod
Jan 9, 2013
Castleton

I'm 5'10" and 195 pounds. If you are fat like me then you cannot fit all of your body into the squeeze and this pitch becomes not so much fun. Doable, but pretty run out and insecure.


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By pete cutler
From Des Moines, IA
Feb 14, 2013

6'4" 185

not bad at all, no pro but none needed. pretty tight


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