Lightning Bolt Cracks route beta

How is the final squeeze chimney? The Bloom book calls it 5.9+ and quite run-out. Does it warrant a PG-13 or R rating? I'm a pretty small guy: 5'7" ~145 lbs. Am I going to be pretty secure in the thing?

pretty secure, its a squeeze chimney, so you are wedged in, unlikely that you are going to fall out, may slid down a bit, but it is pretty casual, although it is a little or a lot on the sandy side. Don't remember placing any gear.

I am 5'9", 160 lbs and the squeeze is not bad. Of two trips up this, one time it was a bit awkward, the next not bad at all. If I recall, not burying yourself as deep as possible yields easier movement. Gear-wise you do run out a bit so exiting to the top is a bit exciting, but more "Wow" than fear factor.

You'll be fine. Go deep in there, and it's even more secure. Funny little pods. Vertical caving. I'm 140, 5' 9", and was all about it the couple times I've done that gorgeous route.

After pulling the P3 overhang, the final chimney move feels secure and soft.

Hopefully you won't have to 5 to 1 your screaming girlfriend through it.......

i don't think it is the squeeze, but rather getting into the squeeze that is the scary part....

plenty of gear in that chimney. If you make it to that pitch, it will feel like 4th class compared the the funkness atop pitch one, and the wide hands overhang atop pitch 2.

Great, thanks for the info! Definitely looking forward to getting on the route sans screaming girlfriend...

bsteve2 wrote:Great, thanks for the info! Definitely looking forward to getting on the route sans screaming girlfriend...

The squeeze is sooo easy. I second Bob's comment that after the roof pull on the previous pitch you will be happy to get away from the exposure. There is gear at the start, middle and end. Its only like 30 feet anyways.

Lightning bolts beta, Follow the crack! But don't follow the big one that's straight up above you when you start the route and look up top!

I'm 5'10" and 195 pounds. If you are fat like me then you cannot fit all of your body into the squeeze and this pitch becomes not so much fun. Doable, but pretty run out and insecure.

6'4" 185

not bad at all, no pro but none needed. pretty tight