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Oct 9, 2012
Just a little overhanging....
How is the final squeeze chimney? The Bloom book calls it 5.9+ and quite run-out. Does it warrant a PG-13 or R rating? I'm a pretty small guy: 5'7" ~145 lbs. Am I going to be pretty secure in the thing? Mr. Stevens
From Boulder, CO
Joined Apr 22, 2011
251 points
Oct 9, 2012
pretty secure, its a squeeze chimney, so you are wedged in, unlikely that you are going to fall out, may slid down a bit, but it is pretty casual, although it is a little or a lot on the sandy side. Don't remember placing any gear. Highlander
From Ouray, CO
Joined Apr 14, 2008
225 points
Oct 9, 2012
Photo.
I am 5'9", 160 lbs and the squeeze is not bad. Of two trips up this, one time it was a bit awkward, the next not bad at all. If I recall, not burying yourself as deep as possible yields easier movement. Gear-wise you do run out a bit so exiting to the top is a bit exciting, but more "Wow" than fear factor. Steve Bond
Joined Sep 27, 2006
53 points
Oct 9, 2012
Cochise Stronghold—me on the left
You'll be fine. Go deep in there, and it's even more secure. Funny little pods. Vertical caving. I'm 140, 5' 9", and was all about it the couple times I've done that gorgeous route. Evan Belknap
From Placitas, NM
Joined Mar 10, 2008
80 points
Oct 9, 2012
After pulling the P3 overhang, the final chimney move feels secure and soft. Bob Dobalina
Joined Jun 2, 2009
178 points
Oct 9, 2012
Kolob
Hopefully you won't have to 5 to 1 your screaming girlfriend through it....... ben jammin
From Moab, UT
Joined Jul 10, 2008
693 points
Administrator
Oct 9, 2012
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
i don't think it is the squeeze, but rather getting into the squeeze that is the scary part.... slim
Joined Dec 1, 2004
2,000 points
Oct 9, 2012
plenty of gear in that chimney. If you make it to that pitch, it will feel like 4th class compared the the funkness atop pitch one, and the wide hands overhang atop pitch 2. MFL
From Sandy, UT
Joined Sep 3, 2012
2 points
 
Oct 9, 2012
Just a little overhanging....
Great, thanks for the info! Definitely looking forward to getting on the route sans screaming girlfriend... Mr. Stevens
From Boulder, CO
Joined Apr 22, 2011
251 points
Oct 10, 2012
bsteve2 wrote:
Great, thanks for the info! Definitely looking forward to getting on the route sans screaming girlfriend...


classic!
MFL
From Sandy, UT
Joined Sep 3, 2012
2 points
Oct 11, 2012
The squeeze is sooo easy. I second Bob's comment that after the roof pull on the previous pitch you will be happy to get away from the exposure. There is gear at the start, middle and end. Its only like 30 feet anyways. Courtney Pace
Joined Mar 18, 2010
139 points
Oct 11, 2012
jibbing at chasm lake
Lightning bolts beta, Follow the crack! But don't follow the big one that's straight up above you when you start the route and look up top! skiclimber
Joined Jul 18, 2006
29 points
Jan 9, 2013
Castleton
I'm 5'10" and 195 pounds. If you are fat like me then you cannot fit all of your body into the squeeze and this pitch becomes not so much fun. Doable, but pretty run out and insecure. Skyler Penrod
Joined Jul 8, 2008
348 points
Feb 14, 2013
6'4" 185

not bad at all, no pro but none needed. pretty tight
pete cutler
From Des Moines, IA
Joined Apr 30, 2012
2 points


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