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Poison Ivy Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Afro Samurai T 
Itch (Sumac Variation Unknown), The T 
Lightning Bolt Crack T 
Obscurity 5.11 T 
Poison Ivy? (Garden Salad) T 
Sickle, The T 
Sumac T 
Twin Cracks aka Railroad Cracks T 

Lightning Bolt Crack 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,233
Submitted By: Bryan Gall on Mar 13, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Description 

The Lightning Bolt Crack (another original name) is the third climb from the left on the Poison Ivy Wall.

The Poison Ivy Wall is located on the west side of No Name Creek approached by crossing the creek at the bridge and walking the utility road back downstream towards the obvious cliff band. Silver Doors cut into the cliff for Glenwood Springs' water diversion facility. Up and to the right of The Doors is the Poison Ivy Wall.

This crack is the obvious "lightning bolt" thin crack that trends left to right finishing in a vertical offwidth slot. Thin fingers, ring locks, and face moves traverses you up and right to a slot; grunt up the slot and cross a small slab to reach anchors in a roof above a large triangular block. Watch you protection in the traverse. I've seen nuts blow out on a fall because of swing back left; thin cams work best. A direct line (5.10) is possible to the slot, little protection exists for this option.

Protection 

Standard granite rack (lean towards the smaller stuff).


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By martinharris
From: Glenwood Springs CO
Sep 29, 2010

Great little route. It was super fun and had some pretty comitting moves on flaring locks. There were several moves that reminded me of the Northcutt variation in Eldo. I would not suggest leading this route unless you are good with small pro, and a set of hybrid Aliens are a must. I would also peg this at like 10b or c.
By Mike Bannister
Aug 22, 2013

Sustained, thin, quality climbing. I didn't need any offset cams, but the small nuts helped out tremendously. Engaging.