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Lighting the Torch
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.7 from 3
votes
Routes in The Torch
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Bee's Brunch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lighting the Torch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Live and Let Dyno S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Periscope T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rest and Digest T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Torch View T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Torched T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Torchfinger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Torchraker T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 35 ft (11 m) |
| FA: | Arjun Heimsath and David Sampson |
| Page Views: | 1,126 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | arjunmh on Nov 25, 2011 |
| Admins: | Aaron Mc, Zach Levy, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area
Details
Climbing at The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area are private property, and now requires that you register in order to gain legal access. This is an easy process. You can do this at: queencreekclimbing.com/.
This is a one-time and free process so once you are registered you are good to go.
You can read more about this process and the announcement at the Queen Creek Coalition website – theqcc.com or the Queen Creek Coalition’s Facebook page – facebook.com/Queen-Creek-Co…
This is a one-time and free process so once you are registered you are good to go.
You can read more about this process and the announcement at the Queen Creek Coalition website – theqcc.com or the Queen Creek Coalition’s Facebook page – facebook.com/Queen-Creek-Co…
Description
This was what we considered to be the most straightforward way to get to the top of this iconic feature. We HAD to get to the top! The initial attempt led to AMH about 5 feet above a tiny cam in a horizontal and facing the crux that looked tricky and loose. That led to a bit of down climbing and the placement of the single bolt to make the move onto the arete a bit more secure.
Start on the south-east facing side on ledge that supports the Torch. Climb through the obvious weakness to gain a small ledge. Clip one bolt, move left and up and then back right to the top. Small to medium cams. This was the first ascent to get to the top of the Torch.
Start on the south-east facing side on ledge that supports the Torch. Climb through the obvious weakness to gain a small ledge. Clip one bolt, move left and up and then back right to the top. Small to medium cams. This was the first ascent to get to the top of the Torch.
Protection
Single bolt, horizontal placements that will take small to medium cams well. A 0.25, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, and 0.75 should give you plenty to work with. The FA was on a 0.25 and a 0.75. Metolius chain with rap ring. Better to belay from the top rather than set up a slingshot (then you can both enjoy the gorgeous view!).
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