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Besides Ancient Art, Lighthouse Tower has perhaps the coolest summit in the Moab area. Located above the Big Bend recreation area, the tower has a relatively short approach and can easily be done in a couple of hours car to car. A number of excellent routes ascend the tower, each requiring an exciting mantle onto the summit block that must be reversed (there are no anchors on the summit).
Drive about 7 miles east of Moab on the River Road. Look for a small pullout on the left, river side of the road just past a large boulder with lots of calcite on one side. Park here then walk down the road (in the Moab direction) looking for a good trail marked by an obvious metal post. The approach takes about 20 minutes.
4 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Lighthouse Tower
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lighthouse Tower:
Lonely Vigil 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, Grade II
Poseidon Adventure 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b R Trad, 4 pitches, 310'
Iron Maiden 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Featured Route For Lighthouse Tower
Lonely Vigil 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b UT : Moab Area : ... : Lighthouse Tower
This excellent route is on the E side of the tower. The approach trail leads to the W face, so a short approach pitch must be climbed to get to the other side of the tower. Approach pitch- climb the loose corner to a good anchor in the notch on the south side of the tower (5.7R, 50ft).Walk along the base of the NE face of the tower and locate the obvious corner/chimney system on the right side of the face (just look for the chalk).Pitch 1- jam the hand crack through the bulge to an easy offwidt...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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