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Besides Ancient Art, Lighthouse Tower has perhaps the coolest summit in the Moab area. Located above the Big Bend recreation area, the tower has a relatively short approach and can easily be done in a couple of hours car to car. A number of excellent routes ascend the tower, each requiring an exciting mantle onto the summit block that must be reversed (there are no anchors on the summit).
Drive about 7 miles east of Moab on the River Road. Look for a small pullout on the left, river side of the road just past a large boulder with lots of calcite on one side. Park here then walk down the road (in the Moab direction) looking for a good trail marked by an obvious metal post. The approach takes about 20 minutes.
4 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Lighthouse Tower
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lighthouse Tower:
Lonely Vigil 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, Grade II
Poseidon Adventure 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b R Trad, 4 pitches, 310'
Iron Maiden 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Featured Route For Lighthouse Tower
Iron Maiden 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a PG13 UT : Moab Area : ... : Lighthouse Tower
Long considered one of the true desert tower testpieces. A little bit spicy, but well protected for the cruxes. p1 12-. Do a long pitch that runs the whole gamut. This is a cruxy pitch. Climb a chimney and easy corner until it slams shut, requiring some hard (10+/11-) stemming and face climbing with pro at and below your feet. Get to a stance, pass a possible belay on your left and launch into the 12- business by a new bolt. Pass the bolt and then hand traverse right around the arete to a ...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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