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Besides Ancient Art, Lighthouse Tower has perhaps the coolest summit in the Moab area. Located above the Big Bend recreation area, the tower has a relatively short approach and can easily be done in a couple of hours car to car. A number of excellent routes ascend the tower, each requiring an exciting mantle onto the summit block that must be reversed (there are no anchors on the summit).
Drive about 7 miles east of Moab on the River Road. Look for a small pullout on the left, river side of the road just past a large boulder with lots of calcite on one side. Park here then walk down the road (in the Moab direction) looking for a good trail marked by an obvious metal post. The approach takes about 20 minutes.
4 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Lighthouse Tower
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lighthouse Tower:
Lonely Vigil 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, Grade II
Poseidon Adventure 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b R Trad, 4 pitches, 310'
Iron Maiden 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Featured Route For Lighthouse Tower
Poseidon Adventure 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b R UT : Moab Area : ... : Lighthouse Tower
You know where this is! Park just past the "Buffalo Boulder" but before the Big Bend area.Try and find the trail to preserve the slope, and make your approach much easier.The route follows the system below the notch left of the summit. The route can be done in 4 or 5 pitches depending on how you handle the easy traverse around the tower.Pitch 1, 5.8+ : So so climbing to a good belay... and keep ALL your big gear handy.Pitch 2, 5.10 : This is the crux pitch - a flaring chimney with an slightly...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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