Type: | Sport, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches |
FA: | Jeff Schoen & Greg Bryce - 1991 |
Page Views: | 1,886 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Josh Janes on Oct 2, 2008 |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Lighten Up is an OK route that would be a lot better if it weren't such a pile of lichen. I don't know if this is because of lack of traffic or just the nature of the rock here, but it is a serious detractor from the climbing.
The climb tackles the attractive arete just left of The Great Escape.
P1: Begin on a large ledge and climb up past 2 bolts. From here, either head up the mungy corner at 5.10 armed with a few stoppers, or bust left to the bolted arete, also mungy. One really hard move. 5.12b, 80'.
P2: Face climb up off the belay with really interesting moves -- probably the best pitch. 5.11d, 80'.
P3: Continue up the arete, past a great, difficult sequence and immediately into a slabby boulder problem crux. Continue to the highest of two belay ledges (and three sets of anchors). 5.12b, 80'.
P4: Move out onto the right hand face and climb up and into a small corner. Either stop here at chains, or link into the next pitch -- up and left along a diagonal weakness. 5.11d, 80'-160'.
Rap with one 60m rope.
Rest in peace, Jeff.
The climb tackles the attractive arete just left of The Great Escape.
P1: Begin on a large ledge and climb up past 2 bolts. From here, either head up the mungy corner at 5.10 armed with a few stoppers, or bust left to the bolted arete, also mungy. One really hard move. 5.12b, 80'.
P2: Face climb up off the belay with really interesting moves -- probably the best pitch. 5.11d, 80'.
P3: Continue up the arete, past a great, difficult sequence and immediately into a slabby boulder problem crux. Continue to the highest of two belay ledges (and three sets of anchors). 5.12b, 80'.
P4: Move out onto the right hand face and climb up and into a small corner. Either stop here at chains, or link into the next pitch -- up and left along a diagonal weakness. 5.11d, 80'-160'.
Rap with one 60m rope.
Rest in peace, Jeff.
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