Light Headed 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10- [details] |
| FA: | Unknown |
| Submitted By: | Paul Rezucha on Nov 20, 2005 |
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Brad on the delicate moves of the second crux.
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Description Light Headed starts about 10' left of Greener Pastures, the obvious crack climb on the steep face just left of Desire. Climb the crack off the ground to a stance with a small ceiling and horizontal crack on your right. The crux is moving up and right onto the face to reach the first bolt. Move a bit right of the bolt and then basically straight up on fun, thin, face and up and over the final bulge to the top. Mike Carville's guide Rock Climbing Lake Tahoe shows this route to be 5.8. In the middle of trying the crux, I was told it's 5.10a which is much more reasonable. A fun variation is to climb from the ground straight up on the face directly below the little ceiling and step up onto the face from there. It's about the same difficulty but height would be a factor as it's a long reach to holds above the ceiling. A fun toprope is starting just right of Light Headed in the vertical crack and climb straight up to the top. You do use some face holds from Light Headed in the middle section but try and stay right where you can. Maybe 10b or so.
Protection Small to medium cams in the horizontal crack about 10' up protect the dicey move out onto the face to the first bolt. Two more bolts protect the upper face and bulge to the top. The anchors are two bolts.
Justin moving up Light Headed.
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Sallie nearing the top of Light Headed.
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Justin on one of the variations to the right of Li...
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By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Nov 22, 2005
rating: 5.10a
| This is a very fun and challenging climb. I would give it *** if it would be twice the length! The first bolt is placed just out of reach requiring you to do a dicey, hard to reverse, step up onto the face. Luckily you are in balance and can make the clip to the first bolt ok off of thin holds. This makes the climb much harder head-wise. I might even think this move to be 10b or so but it's probably just my mind making it harder than it is. If you could clip the bolt from below, you wouldn't hesitate to do the move. The way it is you really have to commit. It's safe, mind you, as you have two bomber cams a couple feet below you but you would take a good little fall if you came off. There are all good climbs in this little section of cliff but this was a really fun one for me. |
By Josh Cameron
Aug 29, 2011
rating: 5.10a
| I always place a .75 and a #1 C4 to start. The fun part is the arete higher up.
Edit: Climbed this again summer-ish 2012 and kept falling on lead at the crux before I clipped the bolt. Its a clean fall with good pro, though, I definitely checked my cams before I got up there and fell again and again and again. !Por Lastima! |
By mattymck
From: Rocklin, Ca
4 days ago
rating: 5.10c
| Fun route, solid lead. As stated, can get a solid piece in the horizontal prior to bolt one. Thin moves, with a fair enough amount of blobs and knobs to make it feel more balancy the cranky. .10c if topping out straight up from the last bolt, .10a if escaping to the juggy arete just left of the last bolt. |
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