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"Unnamed 5.11+" in Bloom Guide T 
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Unnamed 5.10 (route 34) - R of tunnel T 
Unnamed 5.10 - just after turning the corner T 
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Unnamed 5.11 (36) - RF corner through 2 roofs T 
Unnamed 5.11 (38) - twin crack start T 
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Unnamed 5.11 w/ 2 bolt start T,S 
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Lift Kit 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: K3
Page Views: 830
Submitted By: Karl kelley on Nov 14, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Photo by Beth Lim

Description 

Starts with face climbing over 3 bolts, continue up a right-facing corner that starts with off-fingers and goes through the sizes up to steep cupped hands.


Location 

Approach by driving towards the Optimater Wall, but park at a small pull-out on the left. Follow an obvious flute to the cliff bottom and walk right until you see the plaque.


Protection 

Quick draws, .75 Camalots through 3 Camalots.
2 ring hanger anchors



Photos of Lift Kit Slideshow Add Photo
Starting the steep hands, #3 friends, to the anchor
Starting the steep hands, #3 friends, to the...
Photo by Beth Lim
Photo by Beth Lim
Photo by Beth Lim
Photo by Beth Lim
Comments on Lift Kit Add Comment
Show which comments
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
May 10, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

This route is pretty sweet but not quite a classic for two reasons. One, its a little loose and dirty but that would get better with more traffic. The second and bigger reason is that a key foot hold for starting the route and getting to the 2nd bolt is fractured and going to break off someday soon. I think this would make the route slightly harder, maybe 11+.

By Jeff Scheuerell
Nov 8, 2012
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

I loved this route. Great climbing and well protected. Was nice to have well placed bolts before the crack. I agree with Steven though, the few loose sections drop the quality down a notch and the loose foothold, although still there, has a short life span. I wish I had tried it on tr without using the foothold to see how hard it's gonna be. Don't hesitate to get on this route.

By Drew Thayer
From: Durango, CO
Apr 6, 2013

Totally worth the walk! This will still be 5.11 when that foot breaks. Thanks to whoever spotted the line and took the initiative to bolt the start.