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Mickey Mouse Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Asahi T,S 
Beagle's Ear T 
Boxcar Willie S 
Captain Beyond T 
Culp's Fault T 
Donít Panic It's Organic T 
Eagle's Bier T 
Fake Right, Go Left T 
Flakes T 
Green Dihedral T 
Hamburger Helper T 
Krystal Klyr T,TR 
Lifestream T,S 
Mausoleum T 
Mighty Mouse S 
Oblique Streak T 
Offset, The T,TR 
Parallel Journey T 
Perilous Journey TR 
Perversion T 
Red Dihedral T,S 
Shiva's Dance T 
Sidewinder T 
Simian's Way T 
Skink's Lip T,TR 
Stigmata T,S 
Three Mousketeers, The S 
Unnamed Dihedral T 
Vergin' on Perversion T,S 
Vulcans Don't Lie T 
Zambezi T 
Zambezi (??) T 
Zen Effects S 
Unsorted Routes:

Lifestream 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 230'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter, Joyce Rossiter, & Steve Ilg - 1987
Page Views: 1,613
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Nov 9, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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At the 5th bolt...which happens to be the lone bol...

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  • Description 

    • Note that we only did the second pitch after rapping from another climb and traversing across the big ledge system on the lower half of Mickey Mouse Wall*

    Lifestream goes up the left side of the arete at the far left of the Mickey Mouse Wall. Climb up past a gear placement and then past [8] bolts to a two-bolt anchor (note the anchors do not have lowering rings and could use a pair of quicklinks up there). Two cruxes - one at the first bolt, one at the fifth. Lots of interesting sequences made this climb enjoyable.

    Rap with a 60m rope to a grassy ledge ten feet above the main ledge.

    The first pitch looks decent but nothing special. The [definite] meat of the route is the second pitch.

    Protection 

    Second pitch is [8] bolts to a two-bolt anchor, bring a [#2 Friend] to protect the run to the first bolt. First pitch supposedly takes gear to one inch [and has 1 bolt].


    Photos of Lifestream Slideshow Add Photo
    Starting the crux moves. If you can reach a couple...
    Starting the crux moves. If you can reach a couple...
    Chuck's clipping the bolt at the crux. The bottom ...
    Chuck's clipping the bolt at the crux. The bottom ...
    Doing the R version at what seemed to be the crux....
    Doing the R version at what seemed to be the crux....
    From the tree belay on P1, looking up at the aesth...
    From the tree belay on P1, looking up at the aesth...

    Comments on Lifestream Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Anonymous Coward
    Aug 20, 2004

    First pitch is a boulder problem and is OK. Rossiter points out a third pitch as well. Directly above the 2nd pitch anchor he claims that the arete is 10-. Too bad it was totally unproteced mossy and contrived. Third pitch not worth doing.
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 7, 2004

    If you're feeling weak, volunteer to lead the first pitch! IMHO, this is one of the easiest 10d's around. The crux on p2 is much harder, and I injured my shoulder struggling from an iron cross position. Still a fun and worthwhile route!
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 7, 2004

    I can't remember if it was this climb or "Vergin' on Perversion" that I messed my shoulder up on. Anyway, if you find yourself in a strenuous iron cross on either of these, you are probably not doing it the right (easiest) way.
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Sep 7, 2005

    This 2nd pitch is a real gem! Thanks, Richard, Joyce, & Steve! Just enough spice. Bring your tight slippers/face climbing shoes, though. P1 isn't the heart of the climb, although a reach L or crossing over with the R to the rail above the bolt helps. For P2, you can belay from the tree at the ledge & a #2 Friend fits before the 1st bolt. Didn't find any other natural pro. You can pull the crux at the 2nd bolt either L or precariously on the arete to the R. Interesting sequences at each bolt, high steps, arete slapping, decent rests, a thumb mantle & even a heel hook. Another amazing find! Also, seem to have left a #4 Camalot near the base here :(
    By nolteboy
    Oct 24, 2005

    Second pitch has fantastic rock and super cool moves. Very well bolted- [tough] parts are well protected, easier sections are a bit more run out.