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Mickey Mouse Wall
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Beagle's Ear 
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Donít Panic It's Organic 
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Fake Right, Go Left 
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Mighty Mouse 
Oblique Streak 
Offset, The 
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YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 230'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter, Joyce Rossiter, & Steve Ilg - 1987
Page Views: 1,376
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Nov 9, 2003
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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At the 5th bolt...which happens to be the lone bol...
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  • Description 

    • Note that we only did the second pitch after rapping from another climb and traversing across the big ledge system on the lower half of Mickey Mouse Wall*

    Lifestream goes up the left side of the arete at the far left of the Mickey Mouse Wall. Climb up past a gear placement and then past [8] bolts to a two-bolt anchor (note the anchors do not have lowering rings and could use a pair of quicklinks up there). Two cruxes - one at the first bolt, one at the fifth. Lots of interesting sequences made this climb enjoyable.

    Rap with a 60m rope to a grassy ledge ten feet above the main ledge.

    The first pitch looks decent but nothing special. The [definite] meat of the route is the second pitch.


    Second pitch is [8] bolts to a two-bolt anchor, bring a [#2 Friend] to protect the run to the first bolt. First pitch supposedly takes gear to one inch [and has 1 bolt].

    Photos of Lifestream Slideshow Add Photo
    Starting the crux moves. If you can reach a couple of key holds, it's only about 10a, and with a bolt at your chest.
    Starting the crux moves. If you can reach a couple...
    Chuck's clipping the bolt at the crux. The bottom section up to the bush is about 5.9
    Chuck's clipping the bolt at the crux. The bottom ...
    Doing the R version at what seemed to be the crux...although the smarter climber may go left instead here.
    Doing the R version at what seemed to be the crux....
    From the tree belay on P1, looking up at the aesthestic arete & salivating
    From the tree belay on P1, looking up at the aesth...
    Comments on Lifestream Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Anonymous Coward
    Aug 20, 2004

    First pitch is a boulder problem and is OK. Rossiter points out a third pitch as well. Directly above the 2nd pitch anchor he claims that the arete is 10-. Too bad it was totally unproteced mossy and contrived. Third pitch not worth doing.

    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 7, 2004

    If you're feeling weak, volunteer to lead the first pitch! IMHO, this is one of the easiest 10d's around. The crux on p2 is much harder, and I injured my shoulder struggling from an iron cross position. Still a fun and worthwhile route!

    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 7, 2004

    I can't remember if it was this climb or "Vergin' on Perversion" that I messed my shoulder up on. Anyway, if you find yourself in a strenuous iron cross on either of these, you are probably not doing it the right (easiest) way.

    By Leo Paik
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Sep 7, 2005

    This 2nd pitch is a real gem! Thanks, Richard, Joyce, & Steve! Just enough spice. Bring your tight slippers/face climbing shoes, though. P1 isn't the heart of the climb, although a reach L or crossing over with the R to the rail above the bolt helps. For P2, you can belay from the tree at the ledge & a #2 Friend fits before the 1st bolt. Didn't find any other natural pro. You can pull the crux at the 2nd bolt either L or precariously on the arete to the R. Interesting sequences at each bolt, high steps, arete slapping, decent rests, a thumb mantle & even a heel hook. Another amazing find! Also, seem to have left a #4 Camalot near the base here :(

    By nolteboy
    Oct 24, 2005

    Second pitch has fantastic rock and super cool moves. Very well bolted- [tough] parts are well protected, easier sections are a bit more run out.