Life Without Parole  V4

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Type:  Trad, Boulder, 10 feet Consensus:  5.11d V4- [details] FA:  Bob Scarpelli Submitted By:  Justin Edl on Sep 29, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Some climber on Life Without Parole. Photo by G.J...

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Description 

This is probably Vedauwoos most classic leavitation problem. Start at the back of the short roof on two hand jams and kick your feet out over the wide lip. You will find a helpful crimp along the way, but the real meat of the problem lies in the contorted leavitation needed to work your way up to the fist at the top of the offwidth slot that starts at the lip. Strange sequence. After you squirm into the pod above the fist crawl into the cave and then down or drop onto your pad. This little beast is a lot of people's first leavitation problem. Classic.

Location 

This is the crack coming out the cave on the northwest side of The Dungeon.

Protection 

A pad is sufficient. You can also do it without a pad and just a spotter, as you come out of this one fairly slowly.

Photos of Life Without Parole Slideshow

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Bob Scarpelli on his classic "Life Without Parole"	Jason Anderson on Life Without Parole.	Me on Life Without Parole Photo: J. Anderson
Now kiss your knees and stack like a mofo!	Out of the dark... and into the light.