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 ADVANCED
Penitentiary Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cell Life T,TR 
Climb and Punishment T,TR 
Climbs and Misdemeanors TR 
Deception TR 
Jack the Ripper T,TR 
Jailbait T 
Life Sentence T,TR 
Minimum Security T,TR 
Possession T 
Rehabilitation T 
Repeat Offender T 
S&M / B&D T 
Speed is of the Essence T 
Sticky Zipper T 
Tax Evasion T 
Three Strikes T 
Unknown Right Arete T 

Life Sentence 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bret and Stuart Ruckman, and Gary Olsen 1984
Page Views: 522
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: 1) Rehabilitation 2) Deception 3) Life Sentence...

Description 

This climbs the second slab from the left. It starts on top of a ledge system and works thin cracks and edges. It meanders left around a hard area, and then traverses back right to join up with a thin crack that splits the center of the face. Fun climb.

Protection 

Slings around flakes up top. Bring your own just in case. Top-rope can be set up by climbing the climbs to the right and then scrambling up to the top of this flake. Be safe. If leading bring micro nuts


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By Nathan Fisher
Aug 21, 2005

Small gear is an understatement. A couple of yellow metolius, a purple DMM, a couple of brass, and a red metolius, for the lower face. The top can take a couple of cams in horizontal cracks, from small to medium would work as the cracks vary in size. Bring runners, and a screamer for luck.
By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Jun 21, 2012

Led this yestersay and I really think its a great short climb. Bring a bunch of tiny to small nuts. Brassies are great. I saw a few spots where the smallest lowe-ball would be bomber, so bring those if you got'em. I placed a #6 (green) metolius down low, and a #7 (light blue) metolius around the corner with a long sling. HIgher up I stuffed a #00 metolius and a #0 metolius. This thing is worth climbing if you are comfortable with small gear and know how to place it. As for the "R" rating, I'm not sure that this is a true runout out climb. Maybe back in '84 when the Ruckmans climbed it pre-t.c.u.'s.

-tda