This route is on the left side of the Bong Eater Buttress just right of "Desperado" the 5.8 chimney. Start by soloing up a short chimney to the ledge with trees below the route. Climb the first part of Desperado, at a good stance for placing gear, move up and right into the lieback flake. The flake becomes more strenuous with each move. When the flake runs out, thin face climbing on micro edges continues to the anchors. Three bolts protect the upper part of this pitch. The climb finishes at a two bolt belay.
A set of cams, a large cam or two for the Desperado start (I used old style #5 camalots, which may be the new #6). Small to medium nuts useful. Quickdraws.
At the crux of Life on your feet on an attempt a f... Lance Bateman on Life on your feet.
|By Nathan Fisher|
Mar 14, 2006
I was waiting at the park-n-ride for my partner when you were drilling that route. I was hoping you would post it. Thanks.
|By Ben Folsom|
Nov 24, 2011
I got on this thing again after more than 5 years since the FA (I can't believe its been that long). Kind of a lot of climbing packed into a short little section. If you like thin face mixed with power, this is a great route on good rock. The crux moves are all basically bringing your feet up to set up for the next move. Go get on this thing, it is a good winter route!