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 ADVANCED
Sleeping Beauty Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Burly Wench, The S 
Cheshire Cat S 
Glass Coffin S 
Heather T 
Life O' Riley S 
Poison Apple S 
Prince Valiant S 
Sea Hag S 
Sleeping Beauty S 
Tarred and Feathered S 
Witch's Promise S 

Life O' Riley 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Greg Opland, Sandy Draus, Felicia Terry, Fred AmRhein, et. al., May 2004
Season: Late Spring to Fall
Page Views: 768
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Feb 9, 2006

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Putting his hand in the paw of the dog on "Li...

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Description 

Life O' Riley is on the right-facing wall on the left side of the Sleeping Beauty Area. It is the leftmost route at the area. It's named after a puppy, and for a formation of huecos near the bottom of the route that resemble a paw print.

Clip the first bolt fairly high on the route. The rubble at the bottom of the route as you head toward the first clip gives one reason to think (be careful!). Climb up and out the left side of a small alcove and up lower angle rock, which then steepens to vertical on the way to the top.

The crux is at the top of this route, and the rest of the climbing heades up large, less than vertical terrain.

Protection 

5 bolts, 2-bolt anchor/rap.


Comments on Life O' Riley Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 28, 2008

This seems like mostly 5.7 climbing until the final moves which are a fair bit above the last (fourth) bolt and leave the leader with the feeling he/she could hit the ledge below the fourth bolt in the event of a fall. A fifth protection bolt would have been really nice to protect the final, crux moves to the anchor.
By Brian Boyd
Administrator
From: Kowloon, Hong Kong
Sep 25, 2008

There's a large, loose block just below the second bolt that we marked with an 'x'. I also had a phonebook-sized chunk come off higher up. SO, be careful on this route.